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Your puppy's teeth will start coming in when he is about 3 or 4 weeks old and when he is eight weeks old, he'll have 28 teeth. All of these teeth breaking through his gums is painful and he'll want to chew something to ease his pain.

One of the best toys for puppies is a teething toy. When they are teething puppies definitely chew a lot and a puppy teething toy helps to ease your puppy and you through this stage of his development. Some puppy teething toys are very good for easing the pain your puppy feels while teething. One that works well is the wet and freeze type teething toy. An example of these toys is the rope toy, though it is a good teething toy, never leave the puppy alone when playing with the rope toy. The rawhide chews that crumble are good chew toys for puppies. Any buttons, eyes, ribbons or strings should be removed from soft toys before giving them to puppies or dogs.

Some other teething toy choices to get your puppy are: rubber teething keys, tiny rubber teethers that look like cartoon characters, and the nylon bones that have lumps on them that help sooth away the teething pain. Your puppy will enjoy chewing Bully Sticks, which are digestible. There are Kong toys that are made just for puppies and are a real aid for teething puppies.

Choose several different kinds of teething toys for your puppy and don't give all of them to him at once. Changing his toys out so he doesn't get bored with them is recommended. Always choose toys that are safe for your puppy to play with.

Once you have some good teething toys for your puppy encouraging him to play with his toys and not your belongings like shoes, remote controls, and other small items or even chewing furniture legs is the next step. He needs to be taught which are his toys and what he can't play with - your things.

So give your puppy one of his chew toys and tell him “This is your toy. Good boy or good girl.” Playing with your puppy with his toys helps to reinforce that these are his toys. When he gets your shoe or chews on the furniture—take the shoe away or remove him from the furniture and say “no” in a strong voice. Then give him one of his chew toys. If you stay steady and persistent in training him, your puppy will learn, which toys are his toys.

While your puppy is teething, he'll try to place his mouth on your hand or arm and teaching him this action isn't allowed is the best course of action. Take his mouth off of your arm or hand and tell him “no.” Then give him one of his chew toys.

The right training and the correct teething toys will get you and your puppy through the teething stage with less upsetting moments and less gum pain for your puppy.

Choosing Your Puppy

2009-08-11T04:32:00.000-07:00

Before getting your puppy, it is important to know what kind of pet you want. Sometimes people choose puppies for the wrong reason, which is because it is so cute. This cute puppy might not seem as cute as a grown pet. It is good for someone with an emotional response to have a pet, but choosing puppies should be done with thought.

If you chose your pet only because it is cute, you may later have a pet that is smaller than you wanted or bigger or more active or less active than you desire. Consider your dwelling. Is it an apartment or a house? Do you have a yard or not? Do you want a pet that is breed for sporting? Do you want a hunting dog? Do you want a guard dog? Is the puppy basically for he children? Do you want to put the dog in competitions?

Considering the things you don't desire in a pet is important. Do you not want a pet that is more aggressive or is from a very active breed that needs considerable exercise? Is a pet that sheds a lot off of your list? You don't have to groom short haired dogs as much as long haired dogs. Dogs that are bred to be in the water have oily coats, which generate the characteristic doggy odor.

If you haven't had a dog before and would like to be able to predict your pet's temperament and characteristics, a pure bred is probably your best choice.

If you want an outside pet, find out if the bred can take cold weather well, if you live in a very cold area. Conversely, if you live in an area that has really hot summers a dog bred for cold weather won't be able to stay outside in the summer and survive. So factoring in whether you want an inside or outside pet and your weather conditions will help you pick the bred. Some breeds need a lot of play and exercise all of their lives and other breeds are more inactive when they are adults, though they were active as puppies.

Again, remember that the appearance of the puppy doesn't clue you in on the breed's personality, temperament, character, and natural disposition. Whether or not you choose a female or a male of the bred is a personal decision. There may be some difference in the personality of the males and females in a bred, which a dog breeder or a good book on a breed will tell you.

The social traits of your pet are important points. If you have small children and many of their friends come over, then a dog with a fierce loyalty to one person or a family isn't right for you.

Training your pet is another consideration. Some breeds are harder to train because they have been bred to be more independent and others like sporting or herding dogs are more easily trained. Research breeds and pick one that suits your needs to get the best puppy for you.

A Glimpse on the Various Types of Terrier Dogs

2009-08-08T19:30:00.000-07:00

Whatever your dog preference is, you are sure to find terrier dogs among the candidates for a pal. You’ll get energy you want with little grooming and added wit.

Basically bred for hunting and killing vermin, Terrier dogs are now known to offer wide spectrum of features and characters that you might find lovable. They are not as cuddly as toy dogs (while there are some terrier dogs in the toy and companion dog brackets) and they may not be as intelligent like other breeds but they set off these lacks with various things that only they can offer.

Let us discuss in brief some of the terrier dog types that you may find interesting:

Less aggressive but definitely not timid. This best describes Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers. They are definitely alert and very spirited, but when the call for steadiness arrives, they are sure to show you some air of confidence and steady disposition.

This dog type too is gifted with intelligence which makes them very responsive with obedience training.

Parson Russell Terrier is a dog type that exhibits boldness, cleverness, affection and exuberant disposition. While many may find this a playful pal, it is still not advisable for everyone to take Parson Russell home. In fact, formal obedience training is a must for owners since this dog type is more likely to display mischievousness and too much playfulness that make this a very independent pet. For people with active lifestyles and those who can tolerate explorative disposition, this scamp is the best for you.

The Norwich Terrier, on the other hand, is a type of dog that resulted from breeding small Terriers with other smaller breeds, possibly Yorkshire Terriers. Maintenance of Norwich Terrier is minimal and they are content with modest living quarters. They have active disposition though and can be affectionate and fearless. Additionally, they are also known to display stocky and happy personalities which make them ideal pals.

Much like the Norwich Terriers, Norfolk Terriers are also well-spirited, fearless, charming and always ready for game. While both may have some similar physical characteristics, Norfolks can still be distinguished through their folds in the ears.

Basically workman-like dogs, Kerry Blue Terriers are excellent watchdogs and work well in farm settings. This dog got its name from its blue-shade coat color which was originally black during puppyhood.

Wire Fox Terriers are of great interest since they display power through its excellent endurance capabilities and speed. Alertness and quick movements are the dominant expressions of this dog type. It is advisable though that the owner trains this dog and should be given enough doses of daily exercises.

Meanwhile, Smooth Fox Terriers are the frolic and lively types of dogs that are ideal in both country and city living. Displaying intelligence and cleverness, this dog makes good trainees and must be well credited by that. They are also likely to show great affection towards their owners.

These are just some of the many terrier dog types that can be considered as your next pets. In general, this dog type has good dispositions and makes ideal home pets. While some may display obscure aggressiveness, this still does not negate the fact that most types have the capacity to develop affection and keen expression of their attachment to their owners. Be warned though that some dog types in this breed can be very playful and should be given enough amount of attention and time during obedience training and exercises.

Information about Welsh Terrier Dogs

2009-08-08T19:29:00.002-07:00

The Playful and Versatile Dog: Wheaten Terrier

2009-08-08T19:29:00.001-07:00

Like most terriers, the Wheaten terriers, or simply called as Wheatens, were originally bred as hunters. Therefore, their physique naturally evolved as strong and healthy. Their hunting instincts have made them agile and alert as most terriers are. However, this breed is more stable and steady as compared to most terriers as they were used as by Irish farmers as all-purpose dogs.

Among the activities that molded their instincts and physical features were herding cattle and sheep, vermin terminators, hunting both in water and on land, and serving as watch dogs that deterred trespassers.

The following are some of the basic facts breeders would really love to know about Wheatens:

Category: Terrier

Living Environment: indoors (highly recommended); outdoors (fenced yard)

Coat: single coat, medium length, silky and soft, wavy
Colors: born to have black coats but at the age of two, their coats lighten to achieve the
color of wheat grains

Height: between 17 and 20 inches

Weight: between 30 and 45 pounds

Temperament:

Naturally,

• they rarely bark especially when it is unnecessary to do so
• they immediately reflect the moods of their household or those around them.
• their type requires a great deal of commitment and effort in training them so they should not be given to novice breeders and/or owners

If trained properly, they

• are generally happy and friendly
• are easy-going, confident, and deeply dedicated to their family's security
• can get along well with older children and other animals that have been raised with them or are living within the same household

Breeders should note of the following health issues:

• Flea allergies
• Addison's disease
• Heat stroke
• PLN and PLE

Care and Exercise:

• They require daily combing to prevent their wavy and thick coat from tangling.
• They should undergo trimming by professionals at least four times each year.
• Dry shampooing or even bathing should be done only when it is necessary.
• Eyes and ears should be checked and cleaned on a regular basis.
• They should be brought along with family activities such as play sessions, hiking, picnic, and even walking.

Origin/History:

The soft coated breed of terriers, shortly called as Wheatens, originated from Ireland. The date of their existence was obscure but many assumed that their breeds were one of the oldest among other Irish varieties. They were molded as herders, farm dogs, and hunters and terminators of vermin, like the Cairns of Scotland.

From Ireland, they were brought to the US in the year 1946. Slowly they gained popularity as pets and as entertainers. However, the extraordinary appeal of this breed to the Americans at present would not be possible if Patrick Blake did not save its lineage from extinction in1932. They were registered by the American Kennel Club in the year 1973.
Though their types have hunter instincts, they can get along well with older children and other animals within the household through proper training and attention. Like most terriers, they easily develop close affinity with family members so they normally appoint themselves as watch or guard dogs.

For professional breeders, why not appoint them as well as your pet especially when you are looking for a playful yet reliable companion and guard dog? To this effect, you can say that what you own is one heck of a dog—a dog that can work and play as well!

Hip Dysplasia And Golden Retrievers

2009-08-08T19:28:00.000-07:00

Hip dysplasia is a poor formation of the hip joints, which is a common growing disease with younger dogs of virtually every breed. With larger breeds, unsteady hip joints are common, although hip dysplasia can be a serious problem that will limit the physical activity of your Golden. Although many Golden Retriever owners don’t realize it, hip dysplasia is something that dogs inherit from their parents, and gets worse with age.

The signs and symptoms of hip dysplasia is nearly impossible to detect with Golden puppies, although it will start to show once the pup has reached the age of nine months. Even though you may take your Golden to the vet to have him looked at, your vet will tell you that you need to wait to see if the symptoms are there, once the Golden Retriever has reached a certain age.

The symptoms and signs of hip dysplasia vary, although the most common include crippling or the inability to walk properly. This disease can get better once the dog gets older though, due to the joints stabilizing, the inflammation going down, and the muscles in the hips getting stronger and more mature. Keep in mind however, that Golden’s who have hip dysplasia when they are younger will more than likely develop arthritis when they get older.

Golden Retrievers that suffer from hip dysplasia aren’t fit for breeding, although they can still live a long and healthy life. There are certain drugs that your vet can prescribe to your dog, which will help him control his weight and help control the disease. These drugs can also cut down on the pain as well, helping your Golden enjoy himself as much as possible.

Some Golden Retrievers that have hip dysplasia won’t begin to show any signs at all until they get a few years old, once the muscles start to wear down and the damage to the hip muscles start to become more noticeable. Although your dog may be active and healthy for most of his puppy years, dysplasia can slow everything down and make your dog look as if he is old and is suffering from the physical attributes of arthritis.

To eliminate the pain of hip dysplasia, there are surgery options available. Golden Retrievers have a high threshold for pain, and won’t normally show any signs of being in pain, even though you know they are. X-rays won’t show any signs of pain, although the limping or slow walking will tell you that your dog is hurting. Golden Retriever’s who have this disease won’t know it - which is why you should help as much as possible. If you do your part and help your dog seek relief - he will feel better than ever before - although he won’t let you know he hurt any at all.

Newfoundland - The Aristocrat Among Dogs

2009-08-08T19:27:00.000-07:00

The dogs which take their name from the island of Newfoundland appeal to all lovers of animals.There are now two established varieties, the black and the white and black. There are also bronze-coloured dogs, but they are rare. The black variety of the Newfoundland is essentially black in colour; but this does not mean that there may be no other colour, for most black Newfoundlands have some white marks. In fact, a white marking on the chest is said to be typical of the true breed. Any white on the head or body would place the dog in the other than black variety. The black colour should preferably be of a dull jet appearance which approximates to brown. In the other than black class, there may be black and tan, bronze, and white and black. The latter predominates, and in this colour, beauty of marking is very important. The head should be black with a white muzzle and blaze, and the body and legs should be white with large patches of black on the saddle and quarters, with possibly other small black spots on the body and legs.

Apart from colour, the varieties should conform to the same standard. The head should be broad and massive, but in no sense heavy in appearance. The muzzle should be short, square, and clean cut, eyes rather wide apart, deep set, dark and small, not showing any haw; ears small, with close side carriage, covered with fine short hair (there should be no fringe to the ears), expression full of intelligence, dignity, and kindness.

The body should be long, square, and massive, loins strong and well filled; chest deep and broad; legs quite straight, somewhat short in proportion to the length of the body, and powerful, with round bone well covered with muscle; feet large, round, and close. The tail should be only long enough to reach just below the hocks, free from kink, and never curled over the back. The quality of the coat is very important; the coat should be very dense, with plenty of undercoat; the outer coat somewhat harsh and quite straight.

The appearance generally should indicate a dog of great strength, and very active for his build and size, moving freely with the body swung loosely between the legs, which gives a slight roll in gait. As regards size, the Newfoundland Club standard gives 140 lbs. to 120 lbs. weight for a dog, and 110 lbs. to 120 lbs. for a bitch, with an average height at the shoulder of 27 inches and 25 inches respectively; but it is doubtful whether dogs in proper condition do conform to both requirements.

When rearing puppies give them soft food, such as well-boiled rice and milk, as soon as they will lap, and, shortly afterwards, scraped lean meat. Newfoundland puppies require plenty of meat to induce proper growth. The puppies should increase in weight at the rate of 3 lbs. a week, and this necessitates plenty of flesh, bone and muscle-forming food, plenty of meat, both raw and cooked. Milk is also good, but it requires to be strengthened with casein. The secret of growing full-sized dogs with plenty of bone and substance is to get a good start from birth, good feeding, warm, dry quarters, and freedom for the puppies to move about and exercise themselves as they wish. Forced exercise may make them go wrong on their legs. Medicine should not be required except for worms, and the puppies should be physicked for these soon after they are weaned, and again when three or four months old, or before that if they are not thriving. If free from worms, Newfoundland puppies will be found quite hardy, and, under proper conditions of food and quarters, they are easy to rear.

The Decorative Deerhound

2009-08-08T19:25:00.002-07:00

The Deerhound is one of the most decorative of dogs, impressively stately and picturesque wherever he is seen, whether it be amid the surroundings of the baronial hall, reclining at luxurious length before the open hearth in the fitful light of the log fire that flickers on polished armour and tarnished tapestry; out in the open, straining at the leash as he scents the dewy air, or gracefully bounding over the purple of his native hills. Grace and majesty are in his every movement and attitude, and even to the most prosaic mind there is about him the inseparable glamour of feudal romance and poetry.

From remote days the Scottish nobles cherished their strains of Deerhound, seeking glorious sport in the Highland forests. The red deer belonged by inexorable law to the kings of Scotland, and great drives, which often lasted for several days, were made to round up the herds into given neighbourhoods for the pleasure of the court, as in the reign of Queen Mary. But the organised coursing of deer by courtiers ceased during the Stuart troubles, and was left in the hands of retainers, who thus replenished their chief's larder.

Head:-

The head should be broadest at the ears, tapering slightly to the eyes, with the muzzle tapering more decidedly to the nose. The muzzle should be pointed, but the teeth and lips level. The head should be long, the skull flat rather than round, with a very slight rise over the eyes, but with nothing approaching a stop. The skull should be coated with moderately long hair which is softer than the rest of the coat. The nose should be black (though in some blue-fawns the colour is blue) and slightly aquiline. In the lighter-coloured dogs a black muzzle is preferred. There should be a good moustache of rather silky hair, and a fair beard.

Ears:-

The ears should be set on high, and, in repose, folded back like the Greyhound's, though raised above the head in excitement without losing the fold, and even, in some cases, semi-erect.The ear should be soft, glossy, and like a mouse's coat to the touch, and the smaller it is the better. It should have no long coat or long fringe, but there is often a silky, silvery coat on the body of the ear and the tip. Whatever the general colour, the ears should be black or dark-coloured.

Neck and shoulders:-

The neck should be long that is, of the length that befits the Greyhound character of the dog. The nape of the neck should be very prominent where the head is set on, and the throat should be clean-cut at the angle and prominent. The shoulders should be well sloped, the blades well back, with not too much width between them.

Stern:-

Stern should be tolerably long, tapering, and reaching to within 1-1/2 inches of the ground, and about 1-1/2 inches below the hocks. When the dog is still, dropped perfectly straight down, or curved. When in motion it should be curved when excited, in no case to be lifted out of the line of the back. It should be well covered with hair, on the inside thick and wiry, underside longer.

Eyes:-

The eyes should be dark: generally they are dark brown or hazel. The eye is moderately full with a soft look in repose, but a keen, far-away gaze when the dog is roused. The rims of the eyelids should be black.

Body: The body and general formation is that of a Greyhound of larger size and bone. Chest deep rather than broad, but not too narrow and flat-sided. The loin well arched and drooping to the tail.

Legs and feet:-

The legs should be broad and flat, a good broad forearm and elbow being desirable. Fore-legs, of course, as straight as possible. Feet close and compact, with well-arched toes. The hind-quarters drooping, and as broad and powerful as possible, the hips being set wide apart. The hind-legs should be well bent at the stifle, with great length from the hip to the hock, which should be broad and flat.

Coat:-

The hair on the body, neck, and quarters should be harsh and wiry, and about 3 inches or 4 inches long; that on the head, breast, and belly is much softer. There should be a slight hairy fringe on the inside of the fore and hind-legs, but nothing approaching to the feathering of a Collie. The Deerhound should be a shaggy dog, but not over coated.

Colour:-

Colour is much a matter of fancy. But there is no manner of doubt that the dark blue-grey is the most preferred. Next come the darker and lighter greys or brindles, the darkest being generally preferred. Yellow and sandy-red or red-fawn, especially with black points i.e., ears and muzzle are also in equal estimation.

Height:-

From 28 inches to 30 inches, or even more if there be symmetry without coarseness, which, however, is rare. Height of bitches: From 26 inches upwards. There can be no objection to a bitch being large, unless she is too coarse, as even at her greatest height she does not approach that of the dog, and, therefore, could not well be too big for work, as over-big dogs are.

The Collie Dog

2009-08-08T19:25:00.001-07:00

The Collie dog makes an excellent sporting dog, and can be taught to do the work of the Pointer and the Setter, as well as that of the Water Spaniel and the Retriever. He can be trained to perform the duties of other breeds. He is clever at hunting, having an excellent nose, is a good vermin-killer, and a most faithful watch, guard, and companion.

Little is known with certainty of the origin of the Collie, but his cunning and his outward appearance would seem to indicate a relationship with the wild dog. Buffon was of opinion that he was the true dog of nature, the stock and model of the whole canine species. He considered the Sheepdog superior in instinct and intelligence to all other breeds, and that, with a character in which education has comparatively little share, he is the only animal born perfectly trained for the service of man.

At the shows this type of dog is invariably at the top of the class. He is considered the most tractable, and is certainly the most agile. Second to this type in favour is the smooth-coated variety, a very hard, useful dog, well adapted for hill work and usually very fleet of foot. He is not so sweet in temper as the black and white, and is slow to make friends. There is not a more graceful and physically beautiful dog to be seen than the show Collie of the present period. Produced from the old working type, he is now practically a distinct breed.

The skull should be flat, moderately wide between the ears, and gradually tapering towards the eyes. There should only be a slight depression at stop. The width of skull necessarily depends upon combined length of skull and muzzle; and the whole must be considered in connection with the size of the dog. The cheek should not be full or prominent.

The muzzle should be of fair length, tapering to the nose, and must not show weakness or be snipy or lippy. Whatever the colour of the dog may be, the nose must be black. The teeth should be of good size, sound and level; very slight unevenness is permissible. The jaws Clean cut and powerful. The eyes are a very important feature, and give expression to the dog; they should be of medium size, set somewhat obliquely, of almond shape, and of a brown colour except in the case of merles, when the eyes are frequently (one or both) blue and white or china; expression full of intelligence, with a quick alert look when listening. The ears should be small and moderately wide at the base, and placed not too close together but on the top of the skull and not on the side of the head. When in repose they should be usually carried thrown back, but when on the alert brought forward and carried semi-erect, with tips slightly drooping in attitude of listening.

The neck should be muscular, powerful and of fair length, and somewhat arched. The body should be strong, with well sprung ribs, chest deep, fairly broad behind the shoulders, which should be sloped, loins very powerful. The dog should be straight in front. The fore-legs should be straight and muscular, neither in nor out at elbows, with a fair amount of bone; the forearm somewhat fleshy, the pasterns showing flexibility without weakness. The hind-legs should be muscular at the thighs, clean and sinewy below the hocks, with well bent stifles. The feet should be oval in shape, soles well padded, and the toes arched and close together.

In general character he is a lithe active dog, his deep chest showing lung power, his neck strength, his sloping shoulders and well bent hocks indicating speed, and his expression high intelligence. He should be a fair length on the leg, giving him more of a racy than a cloddy appearance. In a few words, a Collie should show endurance, activity, and intelligence, with free and true action. In height dogs should be 22 ins. to 24 ins. at the shoulders, bitches 20 ins. to 22 ins. The weight for dogs is 45 to 65 lbs., bitches 40 to 55 lbs. The smooth collie only differs from the rough in its coat, which should be hard, dense and quite smooth.

The Most Intelligent Poodle

2009-08-08T19:24:00.000-07:00

The Poodle is commonly acknowledged to be the most wisely intelligent of all members of the canine race. There is a general belief that he is a fop, whose time is largely occupied in personal embellishment, and that he requires a great deal of individual attention in the matter of his toilet. It may be true that to keep him in exhibition order and perfect cleanliness his owner has need to devote more consideration to him than is necessary in the case of many breeds; but in other respects he gives very little trouble, and all who are attached to him are consistent in their opinion that there is no dog so intensely interesting and responsive as a companion. His qualities of mind and his acute powers of reasoning are indeed so great that there is something almost human in his attractiveness and his devotion. His aptitude in learning is never denied, and many are the stories told of his marvellous talent and versatility.

Not merely as a showman's dog has he distinguished himself. He is something more than a mountebank of the booths, trained to walk the tight rope and stand on his head. He is an adept at performing tricks, but it is his alertness of brain that places him apart from other animals.

The profuse and long coat of this dog has the peculiarity that if not kept constantly brushed out it twists up into little cords which increase in length as the new hair grows and clings about it. The unshed old hair and the new growth entwined together thus become distinct rope-like cords. Eventually, if these cords are not cut short, or accidentally torn off, they drag along the ground, and so prevent the poor animal from moving with any degree of comfort or freedom.

Corded Poodles are very showy, and from the remarkable appearance of the coat, attract a great deal of public attention when exhibited at shows; but they have lost popularity among most fanciers, and have become few in number owing to the obvious fact that it is impossible to make pets of them or keep them in the house. The reason of this is that the coat must, from time to time, be oiled in order to keep the cords supple and prevent them from snapping, and, of course, as their coats cannot be brushed, the only way of keeping the dog clean is to wash him, which with a corded Poodle is a lengthy and laborious process. Further, the coat takes hours to dry, and unless the newly washed dog be kept in a warm room he is very liable to catch cold. The result is, that the coats of corded Poodles are almost invariably dirty, and somewhat smelly.

Poodle's General appearance
---------------------------

Head: Long, straight, and fine, the skull not broad, with a slight peak at the back.

Muzzle: Long (but not snipy) and strong not full in cheek; teeth white, strong, and level; gums black, lips black and not showing lippiness.

Eyes: Almond shaped, very dark, full of fire and intelligence.

Nose: Black and sharp.

Ears: The leather long and wide, low set on, hanging close to the face.

Neck: Well proportioned and strong, to admit of the head being carried high and with dignity.

Feet: Rather small, and of good shape, the toes well arched, pads thick and hard.

Legs: Fore-legs set straight from shoulder, with plenty of bone and muscle.

Hind-legs: Very muscular and well bent, with the hocks well let down.

Tail: Set on rather high, well carried, never curled or carried over back.

Coat: Very profuse, and of good hard texture; if corded, hanging in tight, even cords; if non-corded, very thick and strong, of even length, the curls close and thick, without knots or cords.

The Foxhound Dog

2009-08-08T19:23:00.000-07:00

Foxhounds were the very first of the canine races in Great Britain to come under the domination of scientific breeding. There had been hounds of more ancient origin, such as the Southern Hound and the Bloodhound; but something different was wanted towards the end of the seventeenth century to hunt the wild deer that had become somewhat scattered after Cromwell's civil war. The demand was consequently for a quicker hound than those hitherto known, and people devoted to the chase began to breed it.

Head:-

Somewhat broad, not peaked like the Bloodhound, but long from the apex to the frontal bones, eyebrows very prominent, cheeks cut clean from the eye to the nostril, ears set low and in their natural condition thin and shapely, but not large, nose large, jaw strong and level, and small dewlaps, expression fierce, and with the best often repellent.

Eyes:-

Very bright and deeply set, full of determination, and with a very steady expression. The look of the Foxhound is very remarkable.

Neck Should be perfectly clean, no skin ruffle whatever. The length of neck is of importance, both for stooping and giving an air of majesty.

Shoulders:-

The blades should be well into the back, and should slant, otherwise be wide and strong, to meet the arms, that should be long and powerful.

Legs and feet:-

The bone should be perfectly straight from the arm downward, and descend in the same degree of size to the ankles. The knee should be almost flat and level; there should be no curve until coming to the toes, which should be very strong, round, cat-shaped, and every toe clean set as it were.

Coat:-

The coat is hard hair, but short and smooth, the texture is as stiff as bristles, but beautifully laid.

Colour:-

Belvoir tan, which is brown and black, perfectly intermixed, with white markings of various shapes and sizes. The white should be very opaque and clear. Black and white, with tan markings on head and stifles. Badger pied a kind of grey and white. Lemon pied, light yellow and white. Hare pied, a darker yellow and white.

The Golden Retriever

2009-08-08T19:21:00.000-07:00

In a dog’s world, Golden Retrievers are simply the fatal attraction. They are a preferred dog breed, making great pets, hunting dogs, obedience competitors, show dogs, and even a combination of all these traits. No matter what your intent may be to own a Golden Retriever, you’ll have an excellent dog that will live up to it’s potential and then some.

Golden Retrievers are calm, well mannered, and extremely affectionate. They are easy to train as well, very intelligent, and great for those who need a companion. Golden’s are also loyal to their owners, lovable, and great with children of all ages. They also make great watchdogs as well, as they will bark loud and let you know when a stranger is near.

Like other dogs, Golden Retrievers will shed their hair throughout the year and more in the spring - no matter how many times you brush them a day. They also like to be in and near the water, similar to Labs. If you have any type of water on or near your property, your Golden Retriever will be in it, and tend to be either wet or muddy quite a bit - which can tend to get frustrating.

If you are always on the go or never at home, you shouldn’t get a Golden Retriever. If you prefer cats over dogs, you should look into another breed. Golden Retrievers crave attention and admiration, and normally don’t do too well if you leave them at home by themselves for long periods of time. Golden’s need attention, and desire to be around you at all times. If you spend a lot of time at home on the other hand, or have kids, a Golden Retriever will be a perfect addition to your family.

A lot of people out there prefer to get a puppy and raise it themselves. This way, the puppy will grow up with the skills they have taught him. This is a great idea and very rewarding, although it can consume a lot of your time and tend to be very frustrating at times. Those who don’t have a lot of time to spare or tend to get easily frustrated, shouldn’t get a puppy. Instead, they should look towards an older Golden Retriever who has already been house broken and trained.

Golden Retrievers are an excellent breed, and they can provide you with the companion you have been looking for. They can participate in several activities with you as well, such as hiking, camping, and walking. Golden’s love the outdoors, and they love just getting out there and doing things with you and your family. If you include your Golden Retriever in family activities - you’ll have a friend for life who will quickly grow on you over the years.

What Is Really In Your Dog's Food?

2009-08-08T04:54:00.000-07:00

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With the many commercially prepared dog foods available on today's market, it is often quite difficult to tell which ones are better than others and why.

First of all, you can't judge by advertising which are the good and bad dog foods. Many advertisers spend millions of dollars per year advertising inferior foods. Unfortunately, a good indicator on quality of food is price. Low priced foods are not always, but most often, the lowest quality foods on the market.

You want to make sure that the adult dog food you are feeding is 22-25% protein and 15-19% fat. The protein should come from a good quality source. Some dogs such as puppies, large breeds, and active breeds have different protein and fat requirements. Make sure to discuss this with your veterinarian to ensure proper feeding of your dog.

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In order for you to make an informed decision, you must know which ingredients are better than others. When you look at a food label, the following are the kinds of ingredients that you are looking for: Human Grade Ingredients Chicken meal, Turkey meal, Fish meal, Rice, Potatoes, Lamb meal, Potatoes, Rice, Sunflower Oil, Vegetables and others. Good dog foods first four ingredients should not be grains, but should consist of things like meat and proteins.

You also want to make sure it says chicken meal and not chicken as the primary ingredient. If it says chicken only, this means that the manufacturers are counting the entire chicken toward protein value. This includes beaks, feathers, and feet. With chicken meal, they are only counting the cooked down version of the protein. This will ensure that your dog is getting the appropriate kind of protein and not byproducts. Vitamins and fatty acids are also good ingredients in dog foods. Some examples include Vitamin E, Omega 3 and 6, etc. These are very important for a healthy looking skin and coat. Make sure the dog food is not laden with preservatives.

Some of the ingredients that you don't want to see on your dog food label include: Inferior protein which consists of but not limited to variations of the following: Wheat, Corn, Chicken by-products, Soy, Gluten. These ingredients are hard to digest and can cause health problems later on if used for a long period of time. Sugar is another ingredient that you want to stay away from.

You are always better off purchasing food from a company that spends time and money field testing their products. You can always be sure that companies such as Purina, the Iams Company (which also includes Eukanuba), Royal Canin, Nutro, Diamond, and Hill's Science Diet are constantly testing their foods to provide the optimum quality ingredients.

These companies offer different grades of food, however, from lower quality to premium quality so make sure that you always read the labels. These are not the only companies by any means who make good quality dog food. The important thing is to read the label, do your research, ask questions of your veterinarians and pet professionals and always be informed. People who work at feed stores are usually a good resource and can help you find good quality pet food. Breeders can also be a good source for finding a quality food for your dog. Dog trainers will also often have a good knowledge of proper nutrition.

You should always follow your veterinarian's recommendation on food as well. Many times dogs of certain ages or with certain health conditions need to be on a prescription diet. While these diets are often expensive, they do contain the proper nutrients that dogs in these categories need. Many times owners will switch to a commercial food because of cost or palatability concerns and the dog's health will go in to a decline. Your veterinary staff know what is best for your particular dog.

While it is often confusing, proper dog nutrition is vital to the health and longevity of your dog. By knowing what consists of good quality ingredients and which ingredients to avoid, you can be assured that you will choose the proper food for your dog. As always, if you have questions, ask your veterinary staff for more information.

Selecting Dog Food

2009-08-08T04:53:00.000-07:00

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Commercial dog food is a great convenience for busy caregivers. You want the best for your companion animals, but with a bewildering array of foods and claims to choose from, how do you decide what's best for your animals?

Standards For Dog Food Ingredients

The dog food industry is huge and extremely profitable ($25 billion a year in revenue worldwide). While manufacturers may appear to have the best interests of your companion animals at heart, they are generally more concerned about their stock prices and bottom lines. This may be especially true of dog food manufacturers owned by large, diverse, multinational parent companies. What this means to you is that if an inexpensive ingredient is available to replace a costlier one, many companies will make the substitution to save money. A few companies pride themselves on their "fixed formulas," meaning that they always use the same ingredients. This may be good ... if the ingredients are of acceptable quality to begin with.

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Dog food may be labeled as "complete and balanced" if it meets the standards set by a group called AAFCO, the Association of American Feed Control Officials. These standards were formulated in the early 1990s by panels of canine and feline nutrition experts. A food may be certified in two ways: (1) by meeting AAFCO's published standards for content ("Nutrient Profiles"), or (2) by passing feeding tests or trials. While most researchers agree that feeding tests are superior in assessing the nutritional adequacy of a food, clinical experience as well as scientific studies have confirmed that even foods that pass feeding trials may still be inadequate for long-term maintenance. Also keep in mind that the standards set only "minimums" and "maximums," not "optimums." Commercial foods are designed to be adequate for the average animal, but not all foods will be suitable for an individual animal's variable needs.

Dog Food Problems

Commercial dog foods and some dog food ingredients have been implicated in a number of diseases in companion animals. Allergic skin disease, obesity, food intolerance, inflammatory bowel disease, chronic ear infections, cystitis (bladder inflammation), bladder and kidney stones, certain heart diseases, pancreatitis, feline hyperthyroidism, hip dysplasia, canine mammary cancer, bloat, and diabetes all have nutritional components - that is, nutritional factors are suspected or known to play a role in inducing or perpetuating these diseases. Thus, it is crucial that we, as caregivers, pay close attention to what we are feeding our animals and how they are reacting to the food.

One potential problem with commercial dog food is pesticide residues, antibiotics, and molds contained in dog food ingredients. Meat from sick animals may be loaded with drugs, some of which are known to pass unchanged through all the processing done to create a finished dog food (such as penicillin and pentobarbital). Between 1995 and 1999, there were two major recalls of dry dog food by different manufacturers due to mold contamination of grain ingredients. Some fungal toxins are very dangerous. The second recalled food killed more than 20 dogs.

Another problem is the unpredictable quality of common dog food ingredients. By-products, by-product meal, meat and bone meal, and similar ingredients can vary widely in their nutrient composition. Bone meals in the U.S. have had a lead contamination problem for many years. The protein in a meal containing a large amount of bone may be poorly digestible and fail to provide adequate nutrition, even though chemical analysis will reveal an acceptable amount of amino acids.

One of the biggest problems with commercial foods is the processing they undergo. Meals are rendered (cooked) at moderate to high temperatures for hours. Extruded foods pass through a steam heat/high pressure device that allows them to "puff" into kibble shapes when they come out of the machine. Even though they move through the extruder quickly, the extreme conditions may alter or damage some nutrients.

Dog food manufacturers are aware of these factors, and most add sufficient extra vitamins, minerals and other nutrients to compensate for losses in the manufacturing process. However, because the AAFCO profiles set only minimums for many nutrients, tests have shown that some minerals may be added to the food in excessive amounts.

Dog Food Label "Rules"

* The 95% Rule: If the product says "Salmon Cat Food" or "Beef Dog Food," 95% of the product must be the named ingredients. A product with a combination label, such as "Beef and Liver for Dogs," must contain 95% beef and liver, and there must be more beef than liver, since beef is named first.

* The 25% or "Dinner" Rule: Ingredients named on the label must comprise at least 25% of the product but less than 95%, when there is a qualifying "descriptor" term like "dinner," "entree," "formula," "platter," "nuggets," etc. In "Beef Dinner for Dogs," beef may or may not be the primary ingredient. If two ingredients are named ("Beef and Turkey Dinner for Dogs"), the two ingredients must total 25%, there must be more of the first ingredient (beef) than the second (turkey), and there must be at least 3% of the lesser ingredient.

* The 3% or "With" Rule: A product may be labeled "Cat Food with Salmon" if it contains at least 3% of the named ingredient.
The "Flavor" Rule: A food may be labeled "Turkey Flavor Cat Food" even if the food does not contain such ingredients, as long as there is a "sufficiently detectable" amount of flavor. This may be derived from meals, by-products, or "digests" of various parts from the animal species indicated on the label. Source: Animal Protection Institute

What Is BARF?

2009-08-08T04:52:00.000-07:00

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It actually sounds kind of gross, but BARF is an acronym for Biologically Appropriate Raw Food or Bones and Raw Food. Many health conscious veterinarians are huge advocates for this diet which can completely replace commercially prepared dog food. One of the first proponents of the BARF diet was Dr. Ian Billinghurst who still recommends it today. He believes that it is the ultimate way to get our pets in to optimum health. Many people believe that the BARF diet simulates what your dog would eat in his natural environment.

Many people feel that there are a lot of health advantages to feeding a raw food diet. Many owners who have dogs with problems such as allergies, skin problems, weight problems, and anal gland problems have found that the bones and raw food diet has helped to significantly remedy these issues.

Some of the advantages to feeding a biologically appropriate raw food diet include no consumption of preservatives found in most commercially prepared kibble diets, it usually tastes better to your dog than regular dog food, and in general, muscle mass and body condition improve on a raw food diet. One also often finds that dogs produce fewer stools, eat more slowly, and have fewer health problems. Many advocates of the raw food diet also claim that it is less expensive than commercially manufactured dog food. One of the biggest disadvantages to this diet is that it takes longer to prepare.

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If you decide that you would like to try the BARF diet with your dog, you must first do the research. There are many websites and books available to guide you through the process. Talk to your veterinarian, though many veterinarians are unfamiliar with the BARF diet. Find people in your area that feed the raw food diet to their animals. Make sure it is right for you and your dog before you try it.

The next step is to transition your dog from his commercial dog food to his new bones and raw food diet. You may want to do this gradually as oftentimes dogs develop digestive problems when switching to new diets. Some advocates of the BARF diet recommend switching your dog to the new diet cold turkey, however.

When feeding a raw food diet, you will generally want to feed your dog twice per day. The first meal of the day will usually consist of raw meat and bones like turkey or chicken legs, thighs, wings, or necks, pork riblets, lamb chops, and the like. The second meal will consist of a mush made with raw meat, fresh vegetables, and Offal (the organs parts of the meat you are feeding).

Usually you will want to supplement this with cottage cheese, eggs with the shells, yogurt, fruit, fish, and recreational bones (which are the harder to chew kinds of bones). This can vary, so do your homework. You will want to avoid grains. Advocates of the biologically appropriate raw food diet agree that dogs do not have the proper digestive systems to deal with whole grains and that most food allergies are grain related.

Most advocates of the raw food diet do not recommend supplements. If you aren't sure what to do, speak with your veterinarian.

Many people are hesitant to feed their dog a raw diet because they are concerned about their dogs choking on bones. While these incidents occur, proponents of raw food diets say they are rare, and that generally, dogs choke on cooked bones, not raw ones.

There are commercially prepared raw food diets on the market. While this is always an option for you if you choose to feed raw food, many advocates of the BARF diet recommend against it. They argue that these foods have different regulations that human grade foods, oftentimes contain unnecessary supplements, are ground foods (and the whole basis of the BARF diet is raw, meaty bones), and are much more expensive than visiting your local butcher.

If you decide that the bones and raw food diet is something that you'd like to try, first talk to your veterinarian about your decision. Then, do as much research into the diet as possible. Talk to others who feed the diet. You may find that by feeding the BARF diet you are improving the health of your dog.

Commercial Dog Food Information

2009-08-08T04:51:00.002-07:00

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Commercial dog food is a great convenience for busy caregivers. You want the best for your companion animals, but with a bewildering array of foods and claims to choose from, how do you decide what's best for your animals?

Standards For Dog Food Ingredients

The commercial dog food industry is huge and extremely profitable ($25 billion a year in revenue worldwide). While manufacturers may appear to have the best interests of your companion animals at heart, they are generally more concerned about their stock prices and bottom lines. This may be especially true of commercial dog food manufacturers owned by large, diverse, multinational parent companies. What this means to you is that if an inexpensive ingredient is available to replace a costlier one, many companies will make the substitution to save money. A few companies pride themselves on their "fixed formulas," meaning that they always use the same ingredients. This may be good ... if the ingredients are of acceptable quality to begin with.

Healthy Dog Food System Natural Dog Food System

Dog food may be labeled as "complete and balanced" if it meets the standards set by a group called AAFCO, the Association of American Feed Control Officials. These standards were formulated in the early 1990s by panels of canine and feline nutrition experts. A food may be certified in two ways: (1) by meeting AAFCO's published standards for content ("Nutrient Profiles"), or (2) by passing feeding tests or trials. While most researchers agree that feeding tests are superior in assessing the nutritional adequacy of a food, clinical experience as well as scientific studies have confirmed that even foods that pass feeding trials may still be inadequate for long-term maintenance. Also keep in mind that the standards set only "minimums" and "maximums," not "optimums." Commercial foods are designed to be adequate for the average animal, but not all foods will be suitable for an individual animal's variable needs.

Commercial Dog Food Problems

Commercial dog foods and some dog food ingredients have been implicated in a number of diseases in companion animals. Allergic skin disease, obesity, food intolerance, inflammatory bowel disease, chronic ear infections, cystitis (bladder inflammation), bladder and kidney stones, certain heart diseases, pancreatitis, feline hyperthyroidism, hip dysplasia, canine mammary cancer, bloat, and diabetes all have nutritional components - that is, nutritional factors are suspected or known to play a role in inducing or perpetuating these diseases. Thus, it is crucial that we, as caregivers, pay close attention to what we are feeding our animals and how they are reacting to the food.

One potential problem with commercial dog food is pesticide residues, antibiotics, and molds contained in dog food ingredients. Meat from sick animals may be loaded with drugs, some of which are known to pass unchanged through all the processing done to create a finished dog food (such as penicillin and pentobarbital). Between 1995 and 1999, there were two major recalls of dry commercial dog food by different manufacturers due to mold contamination of grain ingredients. Some fungal toxins are very dangerous. The second recalled food killed more than 20 dogs.

Another problem is the unpredictable quality of common commercial dog food ingredients. By-products, by-product meal, meat and bone meal, and similar ingredients can vary widely in their nutrient composition. Bone meals in the U.S. have had a lead contamination problem for many years. The protein in a meal containing a large amount of bone may be poorly digestible and fail to provide adequate nutrition, even though chemical analysis will reveal an acceptable amount of amino acids.

One of the biggest problems with commercial foods is the processing they undergo. Meals are rendered (cooked) at moderate to high temperatures for hours. Extruded foods pass through a steam heat/high pressure device that allows them to "puff" into kibble shapes when they come out of the machine. Even though they move through the extruder quickly, the extreme conditions may alter or damage some nutrients.

Commercial dog food manufacturers are aware of these factors, and most add sufficient extra vitamins, minerals and other nutrients to compensate for losses in the manufacturing process. However, because the AAFCO profiles set only minimums for many nutrients, tests have shown that some minerals may be added to the food in excessive amounts.

Dog Food Label "Rules"

* The 95% Rule: If the product says "Salmon Cat Food" or "Beef Dog Food," 95% of the product must be the named ingredients. A product with a combination label, such as "Beef and Liver for Dogs," must contain 95% beef and liver, and there must be more beef than liver, since beef is named first.

* The 25% or "Dinner" Rule: Ingredients named on the label must comprise at least 25% of the product but less than 95%, when there is a qualifying "descriptor" term like "dinner," "entree," "formula," "platter," "nuggets," etc. In "Beef Dinner for Dogs," beef may or may not be the primary ingredient. If two ingredients are named ("Beef and Turkey Dinner for Dogs"), the two ingredients must total 25%, there must be more of the first ingredient (beef) than the second (turkey), and there must be at least 3% of the lesser ingredient.

* The 3% or "With" Rule: A product may be labeled "Cat Food with Salmon" if it contains at least 3% of the named ingredient.

The "Flavor" Rule: A food may be labeled "Turkey Flavor Cat Food" even if the food does not contain such ingredients, as long as there is a "sufficiently detectable" amount of flavor. This may be derived from meals, by-products, or "digests" of various parts from the animal species indicated on the label. Source: Animal Protection Institute

Dog Feeding Guidelines

2009-08-08T04:51:00.001-07:00

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* Change brands or flavors of dry food every three to four months to avoid deficiencies or excesses of ingredients which may be problematic for your dog.

* When changing dry foods, mix 1/4 of the new food with 3/4 of the old food, and increase the new food a little each day. Some finicky dogs may need a more gradual change over two or more weeks. Never let a cat skip more than one or two meals; return to the old food if necessary.

* With any new food or supplement, watch for subtle changes in your dog's skin and coat, appetite, energy level, mood, itchiness, discharges or odors, body weight, and the size and consistency of stool. If negative changes occur, try a different food. If the change persists, consult your veterinarian.

* If your dog companion is on a prescription diet, check with your veterinarian periodically (at least every 6 months) to make sure the diet is still correct. Many conditions resolve over time, and a diet that was needed for a younger dog may be inappropriate when she is older.

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* It is usually preferable to feed one or two meals per day rather than leaving food out all the time. However, some medical conditions require more frequent feeding. Check with your veterinarian about recommendations for your dogs.

* Feed some canned food, which generally contains more dog protein and less grain than dry foods. Plain dry food does not clean the teeth and is not an essential for either cats or dogs. Cats in particular need at least 50% of their diet in the form of wet food to reduce the workload on the kidneys and keep the urine dilute. Cats with a history of bladder or kidney disease should not be fed any dry food.

* Supplement all commercial dog foods with other foods, such as organic meats and steamed, pureed or finely grated vegetables (most cannot be very well digested by carnivores raw). Dogs may be supplemented with tofu and cooked grains; however, cats should receive minimal carbohydrates in the diet. (Plant products tend to raise urine pH and may predispose cats to urinary tract disease.) If you are supplementing more than 15-20% of the diet, however, you will need to consult one of the many available books or websites for information on balancing vitamins, minerals and other nutrients.

* Other helpful supplements that are especially important when feeding commercial food include probiotics such as acidophilus, digestive enzymes, and the antioxidant vitamins E (alpha tocopherol) and C (either Ester C, calcium ascorbate, or sodium ascorbate).

* Consider making at least some of your dog's food at home. This lets you control the quality of the ingredients. There are many excellent books, articles, and websites available for more detailed guidelines on ingredients, proportions, and preparations. Even one or two home-made meals a week will be a significant improvement over feeding solely commercial dog foods.

Your veterinarian only sees your companion once a year. Since you are with her every day, it is essential that you monitor her general health and how she is responding to the food she's eating. Changes in appetite, coat quality, weight, stool, urine, or water consumption may signal a problem with the food, or a more serious medical problem. Report these or any other unusual changes or behaviors to your veterinarian. Source: Animal Protection Institute

Vegetarian Dog Food

2009-08-08T04:50:00.000-07:00

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Dogs are classified as carnivores, but many dogs can thrive on a vegetarian diet. There are several vegetarian and even vegan pet foods available which are supplemented with nutrients unavailable in plants. Your dog might do very well with one of these diets, or even with a balanced homemade vegetarian diet. However, you should watch your dog carefully for problems such as a dull coat, dandruff, low energy, diarrhea, or other symptoms. It can take months or even years for a deficiency to develop.

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Vegetables are highly digestible by dogs after cooking. Baking is best for nutrient retention; but boiling is fine, if you also use the water in the food. Dogs love most cooked vegetables, but may prefer them cut into small pieces or pureed. Whole cooked potatoes make an excellent snack. Source: Animal Protection Institute

Feeding Your Golden Retriever

2009-08-08T04:48:00.002-07:00

All Golden Retriever puppies will nurture from their mother until they reach the age of seven weeks. Once they reach the age of three weeks, they should be fed with puppy food, which you should soak and mix into a warm grubby compound. This way, it resembles the food they get from their mother, and they will learn quickly how their food tastes and how they should eat it.

Once you bring your puppy home, you should always make sure that you use the same food that he has become accustomed to. The breeder will start training the puppy with food, and it’s up to you to ensure that he gets the food he has come to know. Golden Retriever puppies have very delicate stomachs, and they can be very receptive to any changes in their food.

When you first bring your new Golden Retriever puppy home, he or she may not be too interested in eating for the first few days. Being in a new home can be stressful for the puppy, which is why you shouldn’t force him to eat. The puppy will also realize that he doesn’t have competition at the food bowl, because he is away from his litter. You shouldn’t worry if he doesn’t immediately eat, as it will take him some time.

Once your puppy has slept through the night, you should take him outside and let him relieve himself, then bring him in and give him some food. You should also plan feedings throughout the day, such as the morning, middle of the day, then at night. Once you have planned feedings, you should make sure that you stick to this plan so that your puppy will get used to it.

Keep in mind that the last feeding of the day doesn’t necessarily need to be set in stone. You should always aim to feed your puppy at least a half an hour before you head to bed, so that you can take him outside after eating. If you time it just right every night, you can feed your Golden, take him out to use the bathroom, and still have plenty of time to get ready for bed. At night, when you sleep, you should have puppy pads or newspapers in an area that your Golden is familiar with so he can use the bathroom if he can’t get you to take him out.

First the first few weeks, your Golden will eat a little bit of the food. Once he has reached 8 weeks of age, he should be on dry food with a little bit of warm water added to it. The best way to feed is to keep adding a little bit of warm water to the food, and let the pup eat until he is finished. If you continue to do this throughout feedings, your Golden will begin to eat all of his portion.

Keep in mind that you should never rush him, or change anything about the way he feeds. Golden Retrievers will eat their share, although it will take them a bit of time to develop the proper eating habits. As the puppy gets older, his stomach will grow and he will begin to eat more. During this time, you won’t need to add any water to his food. Golden Retrievers are a truly unique breed, a breed that loves to be fed - and craves attention. If you stick to your plan when your puppy is little - he will be a healthy eater as he gets older.

Human Food For Your Golden

2009-08-08T04:48:00.001-07:00

A lot of people wonder what type of human food they should feed their Golden. Even though many prefer to stick with dog food and only dog food, there are certain types of human food that Golden Retrievers love - and is actually good for them. Golden’s crave attention as we all know - and when they watch you eat it never hurts to give them a bite - as long as you know what they should and shouldn’t consume with their diets.

For your Golden’s health, feeding him foods such as chicken, raw vegetables , turkey, brown rice, fruits, and oatmeal are always great. Even though we think of these type foods as “human food”, they are actually good for many animals as well. All dogs have taste buds and noses, meaning that they get very excited when they see you with food.

If your Golden Retriever runs to the refrigerator when you open it up, he’s trying to tell you that he smells something good. Even though he may run to the refrigerator, he isn’t begging for food as many think, he is simply wanting to have some real food. Once your Golden starts to do this, you should give him some of what he wants. Although most real food is great for Golden’s, there are some that aren’t quite so good.

Egg whites
If you feed your Golden a large amount of egg white in his diet, he will get a deficiency in biotin, which is a B vitamin, due to the amount of avidin, which is a very destructive substance. If you are feeding your Golden Retriever egg yolks, you shouldn’t worry as the effects of avidin will be offset by the high biotin levels that are found in egg yolks. You can also feed your Golden egg shells as well, as they contain a large amount of protein. If you want the best for your Golden - try feeding him raw eggs - with the shell intact.

Any form of Chocolate
We all know never to feed chocolate to any type of animal. Chocolate contains bromine, which is very toxic to both dogs and cats. Unsweet chocolate is by far the worst to feed to your Golden, as it contains a large amount of bromine. Bromine is a very harmful chemical, one that normally leads to death of your animal should he be fed any type of chocolate.

There are other foods out there that can be good or harmful to your Golden. If you have any questions, you should always ask your veterinarian. Your vet will be able to recommended real food that is beneficial to your Golden, as well as foods you should avoid. You can experiment with real food if you like - although you should never allow your Golden Retriever to consume any type of chocolate.

The Combination Approach To Feeding

2009-08-08T04:45:00.000-07:00

Although you can get commercial food for your Golden Retriever, the ideal way to feed is to use a combination approach of both commercial food and fresh people foods. Most commercial food is good for your Golden, although it lacks nutrients and vitamins that fresh food has. Vets will tell you that fresh food is good, providing you don’t overdo it. Golden Retrievers love fresh food as well, as they can smell it a mile away. If it smells good to them - they’ll want it.

Most commercial foods will offer your Golden great sources of protein and vitamins, although fresh food contains far more essential sources. Chicken and meat for instance, have far more protein and minerals than any type of commercial dog food. Fish is another great choice, as it contains a lot of the protein your dog needs to maintain a healthy brain.

All dogs are well within the capacity of staying healthy, although you need to provide them with the minerals they need. Each dog is an individual, meaning that you can’t continue to feed him the same food on a daily basis. Golden Retrievers love people food, and they also love variety. What they need one day may vary the next, so you should always mix it up a bit and give them something different each day.

To be on the safe side, you should give your Golden a little bit of everything. This way, he will get everything he needs with his diet. When you design the diet for your growing Golden Retriever, you should always make sure to include animal protein. This is very important for your Golden, as he has to have it. Without animal protein, your dog will find himself literally struggling to stay healthy.

To keep your Golden Retriever healthy, it is very important that he gets quality nutrition. Although quality nutrition is very important, you should never him eat so much that he gains weight too fast. If you monitor his diet and know exactly what you are feeding him, he should remain in his weight class. Sometimes this can be hard to help though, especially if your Golden starts to develop allergies to a certain type of food.

If you ever have any questions regarding the diet of your Golden Retriever, you shouldn’t hesitate to ask your vet. Your vet could make some recommendations for you, even tell you the best type of commercial food for your dog. Depending on his individual needs, what he requires may be totally different than what another dog needs. As long as you keep your dog on a healthy diet and make sure he gets the food he needs - he should grow to be a healthy dog with plenty of energy.

Keeping Your Dog From Jumping

2009-08-07T09:37:00.000-07:00

Dogs want to see and interact with people face to face. This leads to many dogs jumping in order to have that face-to-face contact. When your dog is small, this may not be a problem, but large dogs can be intimidating when they jump, not to mention it can be painful.

The first thing you can do to prevent jumping is to kneel down to the dog’s level. This will allow him to see your face and eliminates the main reason he jumps in the first place.

Getting down on his level will let him know you see him.

Another method you can use if the above doesn’t work is to turn your back on your dog. Look up toward the ceiling and refuse to acknowledge him until he settles and sits. Dogs hate to be ignored, especially if that is the reason for their jumping in the first place. For this method to work, you must be steadfast in not making any eye contact until he has calmed. The slightest acknowledgment will get him excited all over again.

A third method that seems to work well with larger dogs is to wait until they jump and gently grab hold of their front legs. Slowly walk the dog backwards a couple of feet then gently set his front paws on the floor, saying “down” firmly. Dogs hate to walk backwards, and doing so will make him start to associate the unpleasantness with jumping. Saying the word “down” as you place his paws on the floor will get him to associate it with keeping his feet on the floor.

It doesn’t take long to train a dog not to jump as long as you are consistent with whichever method you choose. It also helps if you can enlist the cooperation of other family members so everyone is using the same method. This creates less confusion and more success.

Winter Safety Tips for Your Dog

2009-08-07T09:36:00.001-07:00

Be aware of exactly how cold it is, including the wind chill factor. A doghouse is good to have but may not protect them from frostbite on their extremities. Be sure to bring your pet in out of the cold. Put down a warm blanket for them to sleep on, since tiles can be cold. You can also purchase beds made for dogs at your local pet store

Another misconception is that snow is a substitute for fresh water. Make sure that your pet always has fresh water available to drink, regardless of the weather conditions.

Fur can provide a measure of warmth for your pet, but fur that is long can also pick up clumps of snow and ice, making it uncomfortable for them. Trim the areas around the paws to keep this from happening. Dogs with short hair don't get the same level of warmth as dogs with long hair. Buy them doggie sweaters or knit one yourself. They will keep your dog warm and make them look even more adorable.

Many areas salt icy streets to provide traction. This salt or deicer can be painful to dogs, if they get into cracks in their paws. By rubbing a thin film of petroleum jelly on the bottom of their paws, it will lessen the amount of salt that sticks to them. When you get back home, be sure to clean their feet so that they will always be able to walk comfortably.

Damp fur can be uncomfortable for your pet. When coming back from a walk in rainy or snowy conditions, be sure to dry them off, preferably with a blow dryer.

The cold of winter can be just as dangerous to your dog as the summer heat. Use common sense and keep him safe and warm.

When You Don’t Want to Medicate Your Dog

2009-08-07T09:35:00.000-07:00

Sometimes you want to avoid medicating your dog if possible. There are some easy home remedies you can safely use. If a solution you hear does not sound safe it is better to consult a vet first. The following can all be used safely on your dog.

Ticks or fleas
Make a paste of orange rinds and apply it evenly on the fur of the dog. Let it remain there for five hours and then wash it gently. This is one easy and safe home remedy for helping your dogs get rid of ticks and fleas.

Dry, cracked paws
Take Vaseline or petroleum jelly and apply it to the paws for four to five days. You will find the expected improvement and the paw will heal.

Odor problem
Add a few drops of vinegar in the dog's bath water. If you have trouble getting your dog in the bath, using baking soda as a dry shampoo will work. Sprinkle it on your dog’s coat and leave set for a few minutes and then brush out.

Insects and bites
Insect stings and bites are another common problem with dogs. As soon as you notice this, put adequate solution of baking soda and water on the stung area. Apply ice for any swelling. If you notice any difficulty breathing after a sting, however, take your dog to the vet immediately as he may be allergic to the sting.

A word of caution is in order here. Never give your dog anything involving onions or garlic, as these are toxic to a dog. If your dog is experiencing vomiting, diarrhea or seems to be in pain, do not try any home remedies. Call your vet immediately. It is better to be safe than to lose your beloved friend.

Keeping Your Dog Safe On the Road

2009-08-07T09:34:00.000-07:00

Car rides are the favorite of many dogs. There are some precautions you can take to make sure this activity will be enjoyable for both of you for years to come.

If you have any type of car with a trunk open to the inside of the car or with some other vehicles, you can have your dog ride in the back separated from you by a gate or a net. If you have a regular car, there are special dog seat belts and other types of restraints available. You don’t want your dog flying forward if you must stop quickly. You also don’t want him trying to climb into the front and distracting you.

Dog owners who drive a pickup truck should not let dogs ride free in the pickup bed. This can create a dangerous situation for the dog and other drivers if your dog falls out or decides to jump out. Dogs that ride without restraints in the pickup bed may go flying if you stop short and suddenly. Tying the dog in the bed is not a good idea either as the dog may still jump or fall out and wind up being choked or dragged along the road The best and safest solution is to have your dog ride in the cab of the truck with you. .

Never leave your dog in the car with the windows completely up—especially in summer. The interior of a car can heat up quickly, reaching temperatures in excess of 120 degrees in a very short time. This could cause heat exhaustion and even death in your dog. If you are going to have to leave the vehicle and can’t take your dog with you, it is best to leave him at home for this trip. It is better to have him disappointed today than not around tomorrow.

Household Dog Dangers

2009-08-07T09:33:00.002-07:00

Dogs have a tendency of trying to eat just about everything they come across. In most cases, this causes some slight discomfort. There are things, however, that can be dangerous enough to cause death to your dog if he eats them. Following is a brief list:

1) Antifreeze: Many people do not realize it, but common antifreeze kills many pets each year. It smells and tastes very sweet to your dog and is very appealing to him.

2) Chocolate: Chocolate contains a substance called the obromine which is toxic to dogs. Baking chocolate and dark chocolate is especially dangerous.

3) Bleach: As you might imagine, household bleach is toxic to dogs. Keep all products containing bleach out of your dog's reach.

4) Tylenol: As little as two regular strength Tylenol tablets can kill a small dog.

5) Watch Batteries: If your dog ingests a watch battery, it can cause a potentially fatal ulceration in the stomach within 12 hours. All other alkaline batteries are toxic to dogs as well.

6) Moth Balls: Moth balls are very dangerous to dogs. They contain an insecticide that causes central nervous system excitement and seizures..

7) Fabric Softeners and other detergents: All sorts of household detergents are toxic to dogs at one level or another, but fabric softeners fall into the highly toxic category.

8) Mouthwash: Mouthwash can contain boric acid which is highly toxic to dogs. Symptoms of poisoning by mouthwash include vomiting, drooling, seizures, and coma.

9) Peach Pits: With most fruits, the pits and the seeds are toxic to dogs. Signs of poisoning include drooling, vomiting, and lethargy.

10) Household Plants: Many common and popular household plants are highly toxic to dogs. A partial list of toxic plants includes poinsettias, lilies, ferns, devil's ivy, aloe, and ivy.

If you think your dog may have eaten any of these substances, or anything else that could poison him, call a vet immediately. It could save his life.

Bedding For Your Golden

2009-08-07T09:33:00.001-07:00

Bedding for your Golden Retriever is very important, as this is where he will be spending quite a bit of time - especially at night. The ideal bedding for your Golden should be a natural fiber, such as wool, as wool absorbs most moisture and will keep your companion warm. When you get your blanket, you can try thrift stores, as they aren’t very expensive. You don’t want to buy an expensive blanket, for the fact that Golden Retrievers love to chew. They can chew or tear the blanket in no time at all, which would make an expensive blanket a waste of money.

When bringing your Golden puppy home, he may be a little upset having to leave his mom and the others of his litter. The scents and memories that he come to know and love are now being replaced with totally new ones. If you provide a towel for your Golden to sleep with, it may help to ease him a bit. Towels are a great way to remind Golden puppies of their mom and their litter, which will help them to sleep and relax.

If you are planning to have your Golden Retriever sleep with you, you should be ready to get up in the middle of the night and take him outside to use the bathroom. You should keep his food and water near his bedding at all times, so if he gets hungry or thirsty he can get what he needs. Then, you should planning on taking him out around an hour or so after he has eaten.

If you plan to leave your Golden Retriever outdoors, you’ll obviously need to use a different style of bedding. Doghouses are essential for Golden’s who stay outdoors, as it helps to keep them warm and free of weather. Inside of the doghouse on the other hand, most people tend to use straw so the Golden can make a bed out of it. You can also use a blanket or quilt as well, so that your Golden can wrap himself up in it should he get cold.

You can also use wooden shavings as well, as most Golden’s tend to like them. Newspapers work good as well, as they give your Golden something to lay on besides a wooden floor. Although doghouses work great for outdoor dogs, you should take your dog for walks on a daily basis and let him join you in activities that he finds enjoyable. This way, you can build a unique and lasting friendship with your pet. Golden Retrievers can quickly become the best friend you have ever had - as long as you take care of them. Making sure that have the proper bedding is a great place to start.

Rescue Canine-1-1: Boston Terrier Dog Rescue

2009-08-07T09:32:00.000-07:00

The following article provides some questions most people are assumed ask about the organization and its endeavors. Answers are provided after each question.

Just what is Boston Terrier Rescue?

This is an association devoted to housing abandoned or unwanted Boston terriers. They set emergency rescues and conducts appropriate adoption of these terriers to their permanent homes.

However, the network does not house Boston terriers that are already in poor health, aggressive, old, and/or are disease-carriers since they will not be even suitable for adoption afterwards. The least the BTR will do is to advise the owners of such terriers on better options.

Why are these dogs being rescued?

Most dogs that are rescued by the network were simply unwanted. Most owners would admit that they were unable to provide their pets with the attention, time, and level of activity that are appropriate for this lovely little dog to thrive and be healthy. There were cases when life situations or jobs made it hard for the owners to keep their pets with them. They considered the abandonment of the terriers as the easy or even sole option.

Can the adopted dog be used for breeding?

The association will definitely disapprove of the idea!

In fact, they firmly advise every new owner to have the dog strictly as pets. As part of the placement process, Bostons are being spayed or neutered to avoid reproduction. Moreover, most of the rescued terriers are not excellent strains of the breed standard. More often, they do not have a record of ancestry or pedigree that can be consulted before the breeding process.
May I adopt a female terrier?

Most Boston terriers that are being abandoned are males aging between two and six since most owners think that the female variety is more affectionate. Surprisingly, the male variety is a responsive and sweet companion given proper attention and care. However, since all rescued Bostons are spared as breeders, the gender of the dog should not matter at all during the adoption. Appropriate placement shall be executed by BTR.

Is there a charge if an owner surrenders a Boston?

There are owners who volunteer themselves of paying their dogs' medical requirements, which also include spaying or neutering. Likewise, donations assist in the expenditures that cover the dogs' preparations for placement in a new home and with a new owner.

If I adopt a dog, will I be charged for it?

Apparently, owning a dog requires the owner to be financially capable for health care expenditures and even for the registry of Bostons.

How does the adoption process happen?

The procedure can be summarized as follows:

1. Screening

a. BT Rescue filters potential owners by filling out extensive application papers for adoption.
b. Possible owners' financial capability and lifestyle are being researched by the network.
c. Application forms are screened between 7 and 10 days.

2. Approval/Disapproval

a. Once the application is approved, a dog that is available at the time shall be presented to its new owner.
b. Otherwise, the application shall be placed on a waiting list. If circumstances make the application possible, the new owner is notified later on.

What must be done to help?

The answer depends on the clientele.

1. For Breeders

Breeders are advised not to sell their Boston Terrier to anyone if the new home will be inappropriate. Instead, have good homes reserved for them and plan litters.

Also, if breeders do not have a competent and proper breeding program, reproduction should be avoided.

2. For everyone else

Be informed about the special nature and various mental and physical requirements of Boston Terrier. Then educate others about these things.

It should be made clear to everyone that Bostons do not fit the lifestyle of just anyone and everyone. If possible, look for breeds that may warrant a new shelter.

Moreover, donations are greatly appreciated for they usually assist in the placement process of the dogs. BTR runs entirely on the dedication of volunteers.

Report an unwanted Boston. Rescue an abandoned canine! Dial Rescue Canine-1-1!

Getting the Stink out of Your Dog

2009-08-07T09:31:00.000-07:00

Dog owners who live near a forest, beside a river, or on a farm will be quick to tell you that there is something about stinky, decaying, items that appeals to dogs. It doesn't seem to matter if it is black swamp water, dead fish, or a pile of slimy manure, if it stinks and can be rolled in, the dog is happy. While smelling like a walking barking sewer system is a dogs idea of heaven on earth, its owners are normally less then enthusiastic. The odor emitting from their pet means that they have to take time out of their busy day to either take their pet to the pet groomer and have it bathed, or they have to bath their dog themselves. Even then there is no way that they can be sure that the offensive odor will wash out of the dog's coat.

Dog experts believe that dogs roll in things like dead fish, road kill, and manure in an attempt to disguise themselves. What nobody know is why they feel the need to camouflage their scent. It could be a throwback to the days when they hunted their dinner, if the prey couldn't smell them, they stood a better chance of capturing something to eat. Another reason dogs might feel the need to hide their scent is protections. They might be trying to hide from potential predators or other packs of once feral dogs. Maybe stinking like a landfill made it easier to be accepted into another pack. On the other hand its possible that dogs roll in the stinkiest object they can find just because it feels good. Nobody really knows for sure why dogs feel the need to smell.

The quickest, most efficient way to remove odor from your dog's coat is to wash your dog. Try to use a shampoo that is specifically designed for dogs. Human shampoos can strip the dogs coat of its natural oils, leaving the skin unprotected and open to rashes and infections. Dog shampoos are made to clean the dog's coat, without stripping it of the natural oils. If the dogs stink is especially strong, like the scent of a skunk, bathing the dog in tomato juice is one of the quickest ways to remove the smell.

If you have dog that consistently rolls in stinky, smelly items, you may want to consider taking him to a professional pet groomer and having his coat clipped. The shorter coat will be more comfortable for the dog during the hot summer months and while the shorter hair wont prevent your dog from rolling in the smelly items, the shorter coat will be easier for you to wash, and will dry faster.

If you have bathed you dog and still notice a strong odor whenever it is in your presence the source of the smell might not be the dog's coat but a more serious health problem. When they have dental issues they have breath the smells so foul that you can smell it throughout your entire house. Strong breath odor can also indicate more serious diseases such as kidney failure and diabetes. Dog's are also prone to having anal sacs that become impacted and infected, and therefore extremely stinky. If washing your dog does not seem to take care of the odor you will want to take your dog to your veterinarian and have the stinky problem officially diagnosed so that treatments can begin.

Caring for Your Soft Coated Wheaten Terrier Pet Dog

2009-08-07T09:30:00.000-07:00

Socializing Your Golden Retriever

2009-08-07T09:28:00.000-07:00

Socializing your Golden Retriever is very important. As you may already know, all dog breeds behave different in front of strangers, with some dogs choosing to ignore people altogether. They may choose to glance at someone, then go on to pay no attention to him. On the other hand, some dogs are the total opposite and love to meet everyone they can. These types of dogs love attention, and will take any attention they can get.

Some Golden Retrievers are happy with those they have come to know in their own family, or those they have selected to be friends. Others on the other hand, may feel comfortable just around those of the same sex. Most Golden’s like children, although there are a few rare cases in which certain types of Golden Retrievers like adults but not children. This is extremely rare, and is normally due to the way they were bred or raised.

When your puppy is between the ages of 8 weeks and 8 months, socializing him is extremely important. During this time, you should always do everything you can to ensure that your Golden Retriever meets other people. Although he may be shy at first and not have much interaction, he will eventually come around. You will need to be patient with him during these times, as he will need quite a bit of reassurance from you.

Your dog’s parents also contribute to socialization. If the parents of your Golden Retriever were good with people and other dogs, the gene could very well be passed on to your dog. On the other hand, if the parents were shy or aggressive dogs, those genes could be passed on as well. Pups inherit the traits of their parents ,which is why it is very important to make sure that the dogs being bred are compatible with each other - and share a passive temperament.

If your puppy was separated from his mother before he reached the age of seven weeks, he won’t learn many of the social signals taught to him by his mom and his siblings. Golden Retriever pups that are brought to a new home earlier than seven weeks will normally tend to end up nippy or aggressive around people. Although they may be aggressive towards people, they may be shy or fearful around other dogs, as they lack the social skills needed to be themselves.

Sometimes, if a puppy was injured or frightened during his early years, he can end up with a state of trauma. This type of thing leaves a huge scar in the mind of a puppy, making it very hard for him to get past it. Most Golden Retriever pups that have been injured or frightened by an individual never get past it. They may end up fearing humans in general, or being very aggressive towards them when they feel frightened. When you take your puppy home for the first time, you should always make him feel welcomed, and never let anyone or anything harm him.

To better socialize your Golden Retriever, you should always make sure that he gets plenty of interaction with other people and other dogs in his breed. This way, your Golden will learn how to socialize at any early age. When he gets older in life, he will carry these skills with him. Golden Retrievers that are sheltered or not given the proper amount of interaction will turn out shy towards people and other dogs. With your Golden being your companion for life - you should always ensure that he gets the socialization he needs.

Rewarding Good Dog Behavior

2009-08-06T05:15:00.001-07:00

We know the benefits of positive enforcement during training but how can we add some variety to our rewards? There are many ways to reward your pet and they vary a great deal. These range from simple things such as petting the dog or scratching her ears to more elaborate treats such as home cooked gourmet treats. The rule regarding behavioral rewards is this: Always be certain to provide the reward immediately after the desired behavior is carried out.

One great idea for a reward is play time with your pet. Most dogs enjoy a brisk game of tug-o-war or chase. Some dogs will even show creativity and turn the game of chase into hide and seek, ducking behind bushes, trees or other obstacles and then timidly peeking out from their hiding places to see if you are following. Your pet enjoys spending time with you, so make this a reward that is used often as it greatly increases the bond between you and the animal.

Another great idea for rewarding your dog is time with a favorite toy. One of my dogs' personal favorites is the Kong toy line. These are a great toy as they are very durable, dishwasher safe and are great for teaching your dog problem solving in themselves. This hard rubber toy is shaped like a pyramid of balls balanced one atop the other and hollow in the middle. The hollow part is where the problem solving skills come into play. Many trainers will stuff these toys with all manner of goodies and treats before giving them to their pets. Depending on how tightly they are stuffed and what items you use, unstuffing them can be an all day project for your pet. ( A side note: Stuffed Kong toys can be a bit messy, it is recommended that they be kept as an outdoor reward or on easily cleaned surfaces such as vinyl or tile floors . ) Would you like some recipe ideas for stuffed Kong toys that can also be used as treats in absence of the Kong toy?

Is your dog a fan of your Philly Steak sandwiches? Does he sit raptly at your feet, eyes focused and mouth watering, just praying that you will drop a small bite so he can lunge in and grab it? Perhaps he would like his own doggy-safe version? To do this, hold the Kong toy upside down with the large hole at the top and fill it with small steak scraps or the thinly sliced beef used by Philly steak connoisseurs. Next we need to add approximately one ounce of cream cheese to the top of steak, thus sealing the steak inside of the toy with a tasty treat. You may also add vegetables , if your dog likes them. For variations on this recipe consider using lean beef stew meat, chicken or turkey for a little venture off the beaten path.

Perhaps you and your dog are morning people. While I'm not going to join your clique, I will share with you an idea that my dogs like for breakfast, though it isn't usually served in this house until after one in the afternoon. It's comprised of eggs, cheese and vegetables along with a large helping of love. Again we invert the Kong toy and stuff the large opening with the foods. I usually start with scrambled eggs and a bit of whatever meat we might have had for breakfast such as sausage, ham or bacon. My dogs also like a few vegetables, such as carrots and peas. This mixture is then topped with cheese to hold all the ingredients together and melted slightly in the microwave. After microwaving, be certain to allow sufficient cooling time to make the treat safe for your pet. For a bit of variety try different vegetables such as broccoli or cauliflower, or perhaps add some mashed potatoes and gravy for a really messy treat.

During the dog days of summer what could be finer than a Puppy Popsicle? These are quite easy to make. First, seal the small end of the Kong toy with some small treat such as a bit of meat like a hot dog or some Braunschweiger and then invert they toy. Support it inside a heavy coffee mug and fill it with chicken or beef broth and perhaps small tidbits of meat. Then place the whole thing in the freezer overnight and voila! You have a cold treat that will last all day long.

If we treat our pets well and reward them often, then they will be eager to make us happy by providing whatever behaviors precede our attention. These treats and rewards do much to add to our relationships with our pets and the time spent in preparation of these morsels shows them we care.

Problem Dogs - Dealing with a Nuisance

2009-08-06T05:14:00.000-07:00

You love your dog, but sometimes he can be a real pain! If you know what might be causing his annoying behavior, though, you might be able to do something about it.

Digging

Some dogs just love to dig holes! Their reasons for doing so, however, will vary depending on the breed and the situation. Your dog might be digging holes out of sheer boredom. If you suspect this might be the case, simply exercise your dog more frequently. He'll be too tired to dig. Maybe your male dog is digging in order to get to the female dog that is in heat next door. In this case, having your dog neutered will solve the problem. If your dog is digging holes to bury items or just for the sake of digging, then set aside one area in which he can engage in that behavior. Protect the rest of your yard by spraying a non-toxic dog repellant in and around the off-limit areas.

Barking

A dog that barks all the time, for no apparent reason, is not only a nuisance to the owner, but can be a nuisance to an entire neighborhood as well. The most common reason for consistent barking is boredom and loneliness. Have your neighbors told you that your dog barks all day long while you're at work? If so, then you should consider enrolling your dog in doggie day care. There will be plenty of activities to keep him busy all day long and he'll have lots of other dogs to play with. If day care isn't an option, make sure that your dog has plenty of toys to keep him occupied while you're away from home. You might also try leaving the radio or television on while you're gone - hearing human voices might help your dog feel less lonely.

Destructive Chewing

Most dogs engage in destructive chewing for one of three reasons: teething, attention or boredom. If your puppy is chewing up everything he can sink his little teeth into, there's a good chance that he is simply teething. Make sure to provide the teething puppy with lots of chewable toys so that he won't go after your shoes or other household objects. If your dog isn't teething, then perhaps he's engaging in this destructive behavior in order to get your attention. If you don't spend a lot of time with your dog, but will chase him around for hours if he has your favorite shoe in his mouth, then your dog will understand very quickly that this is an effective way to get you to "play" with him. Spend more time with your dog and you may get him to stop chewing up things around the house. Bored dogs are also inclined to become chewers. If there's nothing or no one to play with, they'll make their own fun at the expense of your furniture and clothing. Provide your dog with plenty of toys and activities to keep him occupied.

Jumping

You might think its adorable when your big dog greets you at the door by jumping up on you and licking your face, but most of your guests probably won't get the same kick out of this behavior. When a small puppy jumps on you it's cute because you can control him and he's not heavy enough to knock you over. Not so with adult dogs. Having a large dog hurl himself at you is not an experience that most people, even dog lovers, enjoy. So, how do you get your dog to stop jumping as a way of greeting you and your guests? Consistent training is really the only way. Ideally, you should begin discouraging this behavior when the dog is still a puppy. If you are unable to get your dog to stop jumping up onto people, then a stint at obedience school is highly recommended.

Disobedience

Most of the time, dogs disobey their owners because they're not sure what is expected of them. In order to get your dog to be consistently obedient, you have to spend lot of time training him. Obedience training should start when the dog is still a puppy and be reinforced throughout the years. Some owners can train their dogs without any outside assistance; however, most will need to enroll themselves and their dog in a local obedience school. You and your dog will enjoy your time together much more once you can communicate effectively with each other.

Putting An End To Digging

2009-08-06T05:13:00.000-07:00

Dogs have a natural inclination to dig holes. It is instinctive behavior, but can be extremely destructive and inappropriate for dogs that spend a great deal of time in yards. A digging dog can ruin a great landscaping job, creating both great annoyance and expense for his owner. If your dog is a problem digger, there are three effective means by which to combat this frustrating behavior. These three guidelines, used in concert, will often eliminate digging behavior in dogs.

Address Your Dogs Comfort

First, it is important to realize one of the most common motivations for digging. Dogs often dig holes as a means of personal climate control. On hot days a dog may dig himself a cooling well. His newly dug hole will be a place for him to rest on a surface that is cooler than the rest of the ground.

If your dog's digging habits seem to be related to heat, it is easy to solve the problem simply by addressing his needs. By providing a cool, shaded location in the yard, your dog may no longer feel a need to dig. Many have found that the use of a kiddy pool or other larger tub containing some water may also be of use in this endeavor. By making the dog's surroundings "cooler," you can easily eliminate his need to remove chunks of the yard to relax.

Likewise, dogs will sometimes dig to create a warm space during cold weather. By digging a small pit in which they can rest, the dog creates a space removed from brisk winds. Again, it is relatively easy to address the situation. Providing a warm space, such as a well-insulated doghouse can reduce the dog's need to dig holes throughout your lawn.

By tending to a dog's comfort, one can reduce a prime motivator of digging behavior. Keeping a pet adequately cooled during the summer and sufficiently warm in the winter is one of the most simple, yet effective, means of eliminating digging.

Exercise Your Dog Adequately

Dogs will also dig when they are inadequately exercised or are overly confined. A dog with excess energy to burn may turn to digging as a means of release. A dog who feels confined in his yard and yearns to run free will be likewise attracted to the prospect of digging those annoying holes.

This cause for digging can be addressed simply by making sure your dog is adequately exercised. Regular walks, play opportunities and other exercise outlets will leave your dog better rested-and less inclined to dig. The value of exercising a dog is immeasurable. It produces a happier, calmer dog who is more receptive to training and who is likely to be considerably more healthy than his under-exercised brethren. Thus, exercise should be pursued in all cases with all dogs. However, it brings with it the additional advantage of decreasing a dog's interest in digging.

Keep Your Dog Entertained

Digging can also be symptomatic of boredom. A dog with little to do may find the instinctive behavior of digging holes to be a great way to occupy his time. The bored dog is more likely to seek solace in the instinctive act of digging holes than is the appropriately engaged pet.

As such, one can combat digging simply by making sure the dog has sufficient alternative sources of entertainment. As previously mentioned, regular exercise and activity offers hope in reducing digging behavior. Additionally, the presence of attractive and entertaining toys can provide a dog with other ways to spend his time and can reduce the likelihood that he will dig holes.

Dogs who are simply left alone in a yard with little else to do are, not surprisingly, apt to invent their own diversions. As digging is an instinctive activity, it is often latched upon as "something to do" for an otherwise bored dog. By providing more attractive play activities, one can remove this frequent cause of destructive digging behavior.

There are certainly other reasons why dogs dig and there are certainly problem dogs whose digging behavior will not immediately cease simply by following the three rules covered here. However, most dogs will curtail their destructive digging if their climate is appropriately managed, they are adequately exercised and they are provided with alternative diversions.

Though instinctive, digging is not necessarily inevitable. By tending to a dog's needs, one can reduce instances of inappropriate digging.

How To Stop The 3 Most Annoying Dog Behaviors

2009-08-06T05:12:00.000-07:00

As any dog owner will tell you, their pet has some habit that just irks them to no end and most likely this same trait is common amongst many of their fellow dog owners animals. There are three traits people find totally horrid that most dogs seem to find great joy in performing. In this article, we will discuss the three worst behaviors for annoyance factor and how to stop them.

When you ask around regarding the most annoying dog behaviors known, this one is sure to come up. Dogs are known for this behavior around the world and still they persist. What behavior are we discussing? You guessed it. Dogs like to drink from the toilet and just do not seem to grasp the point that you find this behavior disgusting. To be fair, they probably wonder how you can stand to drink bottled water and sodas as, to them, this would appear a stagnant pool. Dogs prefer fresh, cool, running water and, unfortunately for those who really wish their pet would find a different fountain, the modern toilet provides just that.

Thus dogs the world over seem drawn to this bottomless water dish and while, with the exception of cleansers and household poisons, this is fairly harmless to the dog, humans the world over are in an uproar. So how do we fix this problem? Well, the first step is an easy one. Break the pattern of the behavior by closing the toilet lid or the bathroom door. This will remove the temptation and force the dog to look elsewhere for water. In conjunction with this step, be sure to provide your dog with lots of clean, fresh water at all times. The dog should always have a readily available water source unless a veterinarian tells you otherwise. By closing off access to the toilet and leaving alternate water supply, you are retraining your dog towards a more suitable water source.

But what of the second most irritating behavior, jumping on guests. Luckily for the trainers of the world, this is almost as easy to correct as the first problem. Dogs are friendly and gregarious creatures. When they see a new playmate, they naturally want to start playing right away. Unfortunately, your well-dressed guest might not feel too inclined to play with the dog that has just been rolling in the mud puddle in the back yard. So how do you teach your dog to mind his manners and save your guests prom dress at the same time?

Well, just as with everything else, it all goes back to the training. Teach the dog while it's a pup and it will remember its whole life. If you thought it was cute for a fuzzy little pup to try and jump up and greet you, guess who is responsible for the one hundred pound mud monster that just ruined your prom? Or you could have avoided this tragedy by starting small and ignoring a pup that jumps. After a while, the animal realizes that this action gets no attention and is not really worth his trouble. Instead reward the pup for not jumping with copious amounts of verbal praise and treats.

This teaches the dog that not jumping is the reward getter. Also try introducing your dog to new faces while the animal is on a leash or harness as this provides more control for the handler and a properly placed "no" will tell the pup that this behavior is inappropriate. If your dog has gotten past the puppy stage before you try to correct this situation, things may be a bit tougher but take heart. With persistence and patience, you can still have a dog that minds its manners.

The third most annoying behavior we will discuss is Face Licking, which is especially annoying if your pet also has the first behavior. Licking is a way for dogs to show affection and also to be comforting to their masters. If your dog is licking you, it is probably for one of these two reasons or maybe just because your dog likes the way you taste. The problem most people encounter is when the correct the dog for this behavior, the animal either sees it as a game or thinks it is not getting its message across and comes back stronger. So how do we correct this?

Again the key is consistency and starting with a younger dog will make this much easier. Remember to use your "no" commands and give the dog some other outlet for expressing affection. Perhaps let the dog lick the back of your hand or give the dog treats for not licking. If the dog persists in licking your face, a light but firm slap to the nose should calm the even the most amorous pooch. Or if the dog seems it will never give up, just smile and be happy that at least he doesn't drink from the toilet anymore.

How To Prepare Your Dog For The Boarding Kennel

2009-08-06T05:11:00.002-07:00

It's time to head to Las Vegas for your long awaited week of vacation. But, what do you do with THE DOG? Some people are unable to face the prospects of boarding Fido and therefore, they stay home. Others either impose on their friends or hire "pet sitters" to come into their homes. And finally, a vast number of people choose to board their pets in kennels .

Before committing your dog to a particular kennel, you should visit the facility for a personal inspection. Does it appear to be clean, does it smell clean, is it well lit and ventilated? How is the temperature? Are the cages and runs of adequate size? A phone call to the American Boarding Kennels Association (719-667-1600) will determine if the kennel under consideration meets accepted standards and is accredited.

After you've made your final kennel selection, it's time to prepare your dog for its visit. First and foremost, make sure your dog's vaccinations are up to date. A kennel will reject your dog if his rabies vaccination isn't current. Furthermore, even though you've selected a sparklingly clean boarding facility, your dog is subject to any number of communicable illnesses always present in a boarding population. A current shot record is good insurance against some of these diseases.

If at all possible, you should consider stopping by the kennel with your dog for a brief visit. He can meet the staff and become somewhat familiar with the surroundings. An overnight stay will do wonders to prepare the dog for his longer visit.

Always provide as much information as possible to the kennel staff. Obviously they will need to know about any medications they'll have to administer, food allergies, whether or not the dog socializes well with other animals and what, if any, particular fears or phobias he might have. If you happen to be boarding more than one dog, you might want to request that they be housed in the same pen or allowed to exercise at the same time in the same run.

If Fido requires a special diet, the kennel may request that you provide them with a supply of his food. This will usually depend on the extent of the dog's special requirements and will be settled in advance of the dog's visit. Make sure the kennel has the name and phone number of your veterinarian and a phone number where they can reach you in case of an emergency.

Most dogs will benefit from bringing familiar items with them. A special toy, their blanket, or even one of your slippers will comfort them and stave off feelings of being abandoned. By all means, don't wash the item; familiar smells are half the battle, so don't destroy them.

When packing and preparing for your trip, try to go about it as calmly and casually as possible. Hectic packing and rushing about will alert Rover that something is amiss and by the time you're ready to transport him to the kennel, he'll already be under stress. Gather his kennel items and have them in the car prior to loading Rover.

When dropping him off at the kennel, try to remain as nonchalant and as calm as possible. Don't be overly affectionate or do anything that might cause Rover to attach too much significance to his plight. The objective is to minimize, rather than exaggerate. Keep it low key - no long goodbyes, no tears and no emotion. After handing Rover's lead to a kennel staffer, allow the staffer to distract the dog and quietly slip out.

If you're a frequent traveler, Rover will get used to being boarded and in most cases will look forward to the experience, especially if he gets an opportunity to mix with other dogs at the kennel. He'll get to know the staff and look forward to seeing them.

Once both dog and owner get used to the idea of boarding and become completely comfortable with the experience, being separated will become much less stressful. While away, the owner will be at peace, confident that his faithful friend is safe and being well cared for. And, Rover will be able to lay back and enjoy his vacation as well.

How To Keep The Peace Between Your Child And Dog

2009-08-06T05:11:00.001-07:00

How will my dog and my new baby get along? Will I have to get rid of my loyal, furry companion in order to ensure the safety of my child? These are the questions that plague many dog owners as they anticipate the birth and homecoming of their first child. The good news is that even though the process of introducing your dog to your newest family addition is a careful and cautious one, it's not impossible. With some pre-planning on your part, you can train your dog to get along with your child and can raise your child to respect and love your dog as much as you do.

Getting Your Pet Used to a Baby

So, you're expecting a baby. Congratulations! This is a time of change, discovery and joy like no other. If you are a dog owner, however, your happiness may be tempered by thoughts of your dog and how your "fur baby" will react to all of these monumental changes. Fear not! If you start preparing your dog for the baby's arrival well in advance of the baby's due date, you should be able to minimize any associated conflicts or problems.

If your dog currently has access to all rooms in the house, get him used to not entering which ever room will serve as the nursery. Keep that door closed so your dog will not consider it part of his regular territory. Then, get the dog used to your being in the room without him. Keep the nursery door closed while you're assembling baby furniture or decorating the room. This way, the dog will learn that even though there is activity there, he is not a part of it. Make sure, though, to pay a little extra attention to your dog once you leave the nursery and return to his territory.

Has your dog been to obedience school? If not, now is a great time for you both to go. Not only will it allow you to spend some quality time together before the baby comes, it will give you the tools necessary to control your dog's behavior. It will also help your dog get used to being in a room full of activity, other dogs and (maybe) children. This aspect of obedience school is an especially important one if your pre-baby household has been a relatively quiet one.

Another way to get your dog used to some of the noises a baby brings is to buy some tapes of babies crying. Start playing the tapes at a very low volume until the dog seems not to notice the sound anymore. Then, gradually increase the volume until it reaches a realistic level (the process should take place over days and weeks, not all in one day). When your baby cries at home, your dog will be less startled.

When your baby finally comes home, keep the dog away from the infant for the first few days. He should already be used to baby noises, but get him used to the baby's smell by putting one of the baby's blankets in his resting or sleeping area. When it's time to introduce your baby and dog to each other, keep the dog on a short leash and reward him during the introductions. This will reinforce the idea that the baby is a positive thing. Also, pay attention to your dog while he and the baby are in the same room. This will help your dog avoid seeing the baby as a threat or something that is taking you away from him. No matter how well trained your dog is, though, never leave the baby alone with him.

Take extra care as your child enters the crawling and walking stage. Depending on the breed, your dog may be absolutely terrified of this little crawling creature or he may view your child as prey. Neither of these scenarios is permanent, though. Your dog just has to get used to your baby moving itself around as opposed to being carried around. Keep your dog next to you while the baby is crawling or walking and reward him for being still (this is where the obedience training comes in really handy!). Your dog will most likely get used to your child's new movements in no time at all.

Teaching Your Child How to Properly Interact with the Family Dog

As your child grows, it's important to teach him or her how to properly deal with and treat the family dog (or any dog, for that matter). Teach your child from early on to "play nice" with the dog. Teach him or her not to pull the dog's fur, strike the dog or startle the dog on purpose. Dogs are animals and their first instincts, when faced with a threat, may lead them to bite or growl.

Your child should also be taught not to chase a dog when it's running away from them or to bother it when it's sleeping or eating. Teaching your child that a dog is a living creature, not a toy, will go a long way toward preventing some avoidable acts of aggression.

How To Improve Your Dog's Behavior Through Exercise

2009-08-06T05:09:00.002-07:00

We've all heard the old saying "idle hands are the devil's tools." The popularity of the adage stems from its validity. Those who are not able to keep themselves busy are far more apt to fill their time with inappropriate acts. If re-written to apply to man's best friend, the notion that "idle paws are the devil's tools" would ring true, as well. A dog who is not sufficiently engaged in physical activity is far more likely to present behavioral challenges.

Often, we hear complaints about dogs who are simply uncontrollable. They engage in destructive behaviors without any apparent or obvious reason. They may dig the dreaded backyard holes, destroy property or simply be difficult animals with whom to get along. These problems can be the outgrowth of any number of things, but quite often the root cause of such difficulties nothing more than idleness. A dog that is not sufficiently exercised will find other outlets for his energies. Unfortunately, when left to his own devices to find an outlet, a dog may very well choose less than appreciated activity.

Professional trainers have long understood the value of exercising a dog. Not only is the physical activity beneficial to the animal's health. Regular exercise in a controlled manner also serves to decrease the likelihood of destructive and inappropriate behavior. Instead of needing to invent means by which to expend his energy, the dog is exercised in a directed manner and incidents of inappropriate behavior decline.

Put simply, if you don't find a way to wear out your dog, your dog will find a way to wear you out! His idle paws will become a source of great frustration if not otherwise occupied. Thus, exercising your dog consistently will improve his behavior a great deal.

Many dog owners, however, find it difficult to find ways to sufficiently exercise their pet. This could be due to schedule or space limitations. Fortunately, there are a variety of means to exercise a dog.

The most traditional means of dog exercising remains one of the most effective: simply walking the dog can do wonders. We too often have a tendency to reduce walking the dog to a jaunt as short as is necessary for him to tend to his elimination needs. Although dog walking certainly serves this purpose, it is important to recognize that the act of walking one's dog also holds the promise of improving his behavior through exercise. Instead of cutting a walk short once his "business" is done, it is better to continue the walk for a longer period of time. Use the walk as exercise-as well as a great bonding opportunity.

Playing fetch is another great means by which a dog can be exercised. Even in an enclosed space, a smaller dog can get quite a workout from a brisk game of fetch. For those owners who are not feeling particular active, it is a great alternative to an extended walk, as it requires little or no real effort on the part of the owner. One can play fetch indoors with a smaller dog while watching a television program or simply relaxing in an easy chair.

Some have found they are able to train their dogs to walk on an indoor treadmill. If your dog is receptive to utilizing a treadmill, you can gain all of the advantages of lengthy walks without having to leave your home. Using a treadmill may not interest all dogs, however, and one is advised not to purchase a treadmill solely for use by a dog for that very reason.

There really is not limit to the number of ways one can find to exercise their dog. Every dog and every situation is at least slightly different, but all hold in common the presence of opportunities for quality exercise. These opportunities cannot be overlooked. Regular and significant exercise will improve a dog's health, create more opportunity for dog and owner interaction and can lead to amazing improvements in behavior.

You can recapture your dog's paws from the hands of the devil! If your dog tends to be difficult, implement a regular exercise regime. There is a strong chance that simple change will have a profound impact on his behavior.

Housebreaking Your Puppy

2009-08-06T05:09:00.001-07:00

You're the proud owner of a new puppy. Unfortunately, you are also the not so proud owner of a soggy living room carpet. It doesn't take long to realize this can't keep happening. So what do you do? It might just be time to housebreak your new pet.

Housebreaking may sound painful but relax. It really isn't all that difficult. It is your dog's natural tendency to want to keep its living area clean so once the home is firmly established in your pets mind the problem will be resolved. There are several ways you can assist the process to move faster.

The first thing you want to do is be sure your pet is healthy to start with. If your pet has not been to the vet already, make an appointment. Your dog should be checked for overall healthiness and for conditions that would make house training difficult, such as cystitis and kidney or bladder dysfunction. While your pet is visiting the veterinarian, ask to have them checked for worms and parasites also by way of a fecal exam. Also bear in mind the truthfulness behind mothers' wisdom when she said "You are what you eat." A poor quality dog food, in addition to contributing to a poor nutritional state, can cause digestive problems resulting in loose stools, thus contributing to your pup's inability to control itself.

The most important part of housebreaking your pet is close supervision. This is necessary because your puppy learns by repetition. If you see your dog showing signs of needing to relieve itself, then immediate action must be taken to get the animal outside to its designated area. Consistency in training is critical. Do not think being lax because it's cold or dark outside is acceptable or your pet will adopt these same attitudes.

Close supervision during housebreaking is also necessary because it gives you time to learn your dogs special quirks such as needing to urinate right after eating or a certain action they take prior to soiling the floor so you can watch for these actions and respond in the future. Also it allows you to correct a situation while it is still fresh in the dogs mind. While being very intelligent creatures, short term memory is not the strong point for most animals of this species and correcting them after more than a few minutes have passed serves no real purpose.

Another key to Housebreaking is giving your dog a limited amount of space. Baby gates across doorways or a pet crate help to make a more confined area and help your pet to recognize this as his living space. Their natural tendency is to go outside of their own living space to urinate so making this association for your pet will make your job easier. Lining this space with old news papers is a good idea at first as it facilitates a much easier cleanup of any accidents your pet might have. Also be aware that some surfaces are more pet-friendly than others. Try to confine your new pet to areas of the home with tile or vinyl floors which are much easier to clean. Avoid letting them have access to carpet or hardwood floors which retain odors and can be extensively damaged by an errant pup.

Remember to limit the amount of water your dog has access to at the end of the day as you will otherwise be making a walk with your pet in the middle of the night. A quick walk outside at regularly timed intervals is advisable to training as this helps your pet to set an internal schedule. Be certain to use a consistent keyword to tell your pet why you are out in the yard such as "potty" or "toilet" or anything you choose and do not return indoors until they have relieved themselves. Also remember to give praise when your dog relieves itself in appropriate places such as on newspapers or outdoors.

Again consistent training is the key. If your pet does have an accident indoors, correct the animal immediately and then clean the area using non-ammonia based products. Instead use an Enzyme based deodorizer to clean the area and be sure to remove all odor of the accident or the animal will repeat the behavior again.

How To Housebreak Your Dog

2009-08-06T05:08:00.000-07:00

First, don't think that you are being mean to your dog by training him or her. Dogs are pack animals by nature. They need to belong to a pack. When your dog became part of your household your dog became part of your pack.

That makes you the Alpha Dog - the Leader of your pack.

Your dog wants you to be the leader. Your dog wants to know that there is a strong Alpha Dog giving orders and keeping the pack in line.

The very first thing you need to do as the leader of your pack is to housebreak your dog. In the wild, dogs (wolves) are trained early not to do their business in the pack's den, and it is vital that you train your dog not to do its business in your den (your house).

Most dog experts agree that the best age to housebreak a puppy is between 8 and 12 weeks old.

If you are housebreaking a puppy, one of the best ways is to use a crate. Believe it or not, puppies like crate training. For a dog a crate is like its ancestral den and the confined space in a crate gives your puppy a sense of security and safety.

NEVER use the crate to punish your puppy. The crate is NOT a jail. Your puppy's crate is its happy and safe home. Never lock a young puppy in a crate for more than 2 hours - three hours tops in an emergency.

Puppies won't make a mess in their sleeping area unless you leave them locked up for too long at a time, which is why the crate makes such a good tool for housebreaking. Leave your puppy in its crate for two hours and then take it out of its crate and lead it outside to the area where you want it to do its mess.

As it does its mess say the words "Hurry Up" and then praise your puppy, possibly even give your puppy a small treat on occasion. By using the words "Hurry Up" as your puppy is doing its business you train it to associate the words "Hurry Up" with doing its business. Later, especially on cold, dark winter nights you'll appreciate the fact that the words "Hurry Up" will shorten your "walk" time considerably!

Always take your puppy out the same door and to the same area each time. This will teach your puppy to scratch at the same door when it needs to go out and it will make your future clean ups quicker and easier.

Try to take your dog outside to do its business at the same time each day. Dogs, like most humans, feel most comfortable when they have a routine to follow.

Unless you catch your dog in the act of making a mess, do NOT scold your dog for making a mess in the house. Rubbing your dog's nose in a puddle of pee even a few minutes after the act does NOT teach your dog not to pee in the house - it only CONFUSES your dog.

If you CATCH your dog IN THE ACT of making a mess in the house grab the dog's collar and yank on it, saying the word "NO!" in a DEEP and STERN voice and then lead your dog to the outside area where you are training it to go to the bathroom. When your dog does its business, praise your dog (and don't forget to use the words "Hurry Up" as it is doing its business).

If your puppy is running around the house free keep an eye on it and learn to recognize the signs when it is about to make a mess. It might start circling an area, or it might start sniffing its nose close to the floor, or it may begin walking in a different way. Almost all dogs give some kind of a signal before they are going to mess. Learn to pick up on your dog's signal and then pull them by the collar to the outdoor area where you want them to go.

You're going to have to be a little patient. Your puppy will have accidents. Your puppy, after all, still has puppy-brains and it will take a certain amount of time before the neurons begin to click in that little brain and the light bulb suddenly lights up and your puppy says "Oh, that's what you want me to do!"

Dealing With A Difficult Dog

2009-08-06T05:05:00.000-07:00

When you brought him home, you just knew that cute little puppy was going to brighten your family's life in many different ways! You visualized him running with the children in the backyard, curled up at your feet on a winter's night in front of the fire, and as an always-cheerful companion for everyone in the house.

You didn't expect biting. You certainly didn't anticipate his aggressive personality. You never dreamt he would make it his life's mission to destroy clothing and furniture. You didn't plan for the random barking or the wanton disobedience. Whether you were ready for it or not, you own a difficult dog.

There is undoubtedly a temptation to give up. You may feel as though you are simply trapped with a "naughty dog." Some may even consider the highly inappropriate route of abandoning a pet under these circumstances. Neither of these solutions, however, is good for the dog or the owner. Instead, one must be determined that they will work with their difficult dog to improve the situation. Making that commitment is the essential first step in dealing with any difficult dog.

But then what? There is no one-size-fits all solution for handling a difficult dog. Like people, each dog's personality and needs are unique. There are four overarching things you need to do, however, if you want your dog to live a happy life and to be a pleasurable companion for you.

Seek Out Information

That small ten-page dog-training pamphlet you picked up at the pet store along with the leashes is not going to enough of a guide to training your difficult dog. Seek out detailed and expertly written information about dog training and specific methods to assist you in training your difficult pet. Canvass the library, bookstores and the internet in the pursuit of knowledge and tips that can help you deal with your specific pet problems. Although one must avoid researching at the expense of doing, it is important to have a strong understanding of your dog, his problems, and potential means of addressing his behavioral deficiencies.

Make Sure Your Dog Is Healthy

Often, behavioral problems can be a manifestation of an underlying health problem. Consider the possibility that your dog's behavior issues could be symptomatic of a physical problem. Make sure your dog is thoroughly checked out by a veterinarian. If a medical issue is underlying his poor behavior, proper treatment can rectify many of his problems-as well as helping to insure a long healthy life for your dog. Too often, medical causes of poor behavior go overlooked.

Be Patient

Don't expect your problem dog to transform overnight. Changing the behavior patters of difficult dogs can take some time. If you expect the quick course that worked in training your neighbor's non-problem dog to be successful for your difficult pet, you will be disappointed. Brace yourself to commit a great deal of time to correcting your dog's errant behavior. Additionally, impatience increases the risk of inconsistency in training and the likelihood you may lose your temper or act inappropriately in handling your dog. This type of behavior on the part of an owner may not only be cruel, it can also reverse any gains made and make quality training even more difficult.

Seek Assistance

Sometimes a dog simply requires professional training assistance. If you have tried to manage the situation unsuccessfully and feel you are at a dead end, you must consider utilizing a professional dog trainer. Quality professionals have wide-reaching experience and may be able to isolate training methods that will be effective for your particular dog. You may need to hire a trainer on a regular basis. At there very least, you may plan on consulting with a trainer regularly.

By learning more, keeping a close eye on your dog's physical health, remaining patient and seeking professional guidance when necessary, you can improve the quality of life for your behaviorally challenged dogs. The little puppy you brought home in hopes of having the perfect pet still has a chance at that happy life if you follow these recommendations and commit to treating the dog properly and training him effectively. By committing yourself to your dog's training and well being you may end up with just the happy, content and cheerful companion you wanted all along.

How To Housebreak Your Dog

2009-08-05T10:45:00.000-07:00

Dealing With A Difficult Dog

2009-08-05T10:40:00.001-07:00

Leash Training Your Dog

2009-08-05T10:40:00.000-07:00

Who else here is old enough to remember the Jetson's cartoon show and their beloved dog, Astro? Remember how every time George took the dog for a walk, Astro ended up walking him? George was helplessly drug behind this great beast as it chased cats, food or whatever else struck the animals fancy that episode. I'm sure we all had a good hearty laugh at poor Georges' expense as kids but, now that we are a bit older and wiser, we really don't want to be in his shoes... or at the end of Astros' leash, for that matter. So how do you teach your massive Great Dane to walk at your pace on a leash? How about a few pointers?

The first part of training your pet not to drag you at the end of the leash is to instill in them a sense of calm before the leash ever goes on. Dogs are adventurous animals and the sight of the leash signals them that they are going out on a grand adventure. They become very excited by the prospect and it can be difficult to even get the leash affixed to their collar let alone control the dog. So we need the help of another command. This is the "sit" command followed by "stay." The idea is to make your pet calm down sufficiently that you do not have to fight to attach the leash and the walk should by no means begin until the pet has calmed. If you allow the pet to set the mood for your walk as a nerve racking frenzy of movement and excitement, then they will continue the walk at the same pace.

Now that you have achieved placing the leash on the collar, you are nearly ready. You might have noticed your pet trembling in excitement as you were attaching the leash. She is ready for the walk and just can't wait. Hold on to the end of the leash tightly and plant both feet firmly because as soon as you release the collar, two things are going to happen... One, your pet is going to bolt madly around the room in a renewed frenzy of excitement and, secondly, you are going to feel as if your arm is going to be wrenched from its socket.

To stop future incidence of this, try a simple trick... Stand Still. Your pet will quickly reach the end of the leash and be left dancing at the end of it. Hold your ground until she realizes that you are not going anywhere at all. When the animal calms and comes back to you praise her profusely. Then walk around the room with her a bit. If she repeats the pulling behavior, again stand still. She will quickly learn that a frenzy of activity is not rewarded and will be much calmer at the end of the leash. Again praise her for being a good dog. Keep repeating this activity until you feel confident that your pet is ready for the added stimulus of being outdoors.

Now we ramp up the training a bit by moving outdoors. Here in the great unknown expanses, there lurk many new temptations; the neighbors cat, the newspaper boy on his bike, the mailman carrying a sack full of letters and usually a few dog biscuits or even a stray dog passing by. With so many new and exciting adventures, your pet will be tempted to pull at the leash again but you must stand your ground. Some of the pulling can be headed off by avoiding these situations until your pet has more experience with the leash by keeping a watchful eye for other animals or people who might interact with your pet and circumventing these areas.

Once your pet is ready for such interactions, perhaps you can arrange a meeting in a controlled manner such as asking a friend to approach you and your pet at the park so you can teach your pet how to respond to a strangers approach. No matter what the situation, remember to stand still until your pet has calmed or you will be running to catch up to your pet for a very long time to come.

How To Teach Children To Care For The Dog

2009-08-05T10:36:00.002-07:00

If you have a child, you've probably heard those familiar words, "Can we keep him?" Dog's aren't just a man's best friend anymore; they've become the whole family's friend. If you're like any typical family, the children will probably spend the most time with your new dog. This is why it's very important you teach your child how to take care of him. Here are a few dog rules to teach them:

1. Make sure you remember to feed the dog and give him fresh water each day. Explain that dogs, especially puppies, need nutrition each day for energy and proper growth. If you have an outside dog, it's especially important that his water dish is changed everyday. Standing water is a breeding place for mosquitoes. Also dirt can get flung into their dish. It is equally important for small children to be supervised when dealing with this type of responsibility. Sometimes smaller children can be too eager to help. Explain to your children why we don't feed dog's certain foods such as sweets. Dog food is made to meet their dog's nutritional needs and sweets can make their dog sick.

2. Being N-I-C-E to your dog is another lesson to teach children. Younger children, particularly under the age of four, have a tendency to be rough with animals. Pulling tails and ears just comes naturally with their curiosity. With a new dog, you may not know his temperament very well or how he may react to your child's curiosity. Lead by example. Show your child how to be kind to animals. Show them how to gently pet them on the head or back and that hitting or pulling can hurt the dog.

3. Teach your child about the importance of exercise with the family dog. In order for the dog to stay healthy he must move around and play. If the dog is not overpowering, let your child walk the dog with a leash. Another fun activity for exercise is fetch. Let your child throw a ball or stick for the pet to chase. This is lots of fun for both participants.

4. If you have a rambunctious puppy, make sure your child doesn't leave things lying around. Puppies love to chew on whatever they can sink their teeth into. If they see your daughter's favorite dolly on the floor, or your son's tennis shoe, the puppy will show no reserve. They will usually dive right in. Tell your child that your puppy is too young to understand, and that until he gets older, be extra careful about leaving things lying around.

5. Keep bathroom doors shut. Dogs are notorious for drinking from the toilet bowl. If you can help it, reduce the temptation for him, by teaching your child to keep bathroom doors shut.

6. If you have an indoor dog then he's got to have potty breaks outside. Keep a schedule of bathroom breaks for your dog. This is one of the not so fun parts of taking care of a new pet. Remind your child that if the new dog doesn't keep to the scheduled potty breaks that he may find a place in the house. In training a new dog to use the bathroom outside, the scheduled times must be strictly kept.

7. Make a chart. If you child is having problems remembering to feed the pet or take it out for breaks, it would be a great idea to make a chart of things to do each day. Let your child mark a check when the chore has been completed. The more he completes the chore, the easier it will be to remember.

Children don't always see the bigger picture of taking care of a new dog, but with our guidance, they will no doubt become good little pet owners. It's a good idea to applaud your child when he takes on responsibility and follows through with it. This will give them confidence to mature and take on more responsibility as they get older. Taking care of a pet is a big responsibility. Teach your kids that just as they have to be taken care of by parents, their pet has to be taken care of as well. Our pets depend on us everyday.

Teach Your Dog Not To Bark

2009-08-05T10:36:00.000-07:00

Unwanted barking is one of the most common behavior problems in dogs. It is normal for dogs to vocalize and bark from time to time but many times this behavior escalates much to the frustration of many dog owners. There are many causes of unwanted barking. First you must determine why your dog is barking before you can begin a program of retraining. You may need help from your animal behaviorist or veterinarian to do this.

One cause of unwanted barking is attention seeking barking. You may have inadvertently reinforced this behavior if as a pup your dog barked a lot and you gave him attention to try and stop the behavior. As an older dog, he may be exhibiting this behavior because he is left alone for long periods of time, does not have appropriate stimulation or exercise, or is an active dog that needs to have a job to be happy.

If you suspect this is the cause of your dog's unwanted barking behavior, you can start to retrain him by making sure first and foremost that he is getting enough exercise. Make sure to take daily walks - this also allows him to explore the world around him which is good mental exercise as well. If you have a local dog park, take your dog there and let him socialize with other dogs and people. Take an obedience class - this is good for mental stimulation and will help you to better communicate with your dog. Provide many interesting toys to keep your dog busy while you are not around. Make sure to spend one on one time with your dog on a daily basis and make it fun so that your dog learns that he doesn't need to bark to get your attention.

Another cause of excessive barking is as a response to something that your dog is afraid of. Many dogs bark during thunderstorms or around unfamiliar people. If your dog is barking as a response to thunderstorms or other loud noises, provide him with a safe place he can go in these situations such as a crate. Make his safe place fun by providing good treats such as a Kong filled with peanut butter to keep him occupied. Play a radio or the television at a low level to help mask the noise. If your dog is barking at unfamiliar people, help him get over this fear by enlisting the help of your friends and neighbors. Have them walk by and approach your dog. Have them ask him to sit, and when he does so without barking, have them give him a treat.

Pretty soon, your dog will learn to associate unfamiliar people with treats and will learn new positive behaviors. If your dog barks at people and noises that are coming from outside the house, you may want to limit his access to rooms with windows. This will help cut down on the unwanted barking behavior.

If your dog is barking when you're not home, it could be due to separation anxiety. If your dog is especially attached to you or has recently experienced a situation of change in his routine such as divorce, a move, or a death in the family, this could be the case. To remedy this kind of barking behavior, you will need to start a course of desensitization. You can begin to do this by taking very small trips such as just out to the mailbox and back, while leaving fun toys and yummy treats for your dog. As your dog learns to behave while you're gone, slowly increase the length of time you are gone.

To check and see if your dog is barking when you're gone, you may need to use a tape recorder or enlist the help of your neighbors. Separation anxiety often needs to be treated with medication as well as desensitization. If you suspect your dog is barking due to separation anxiety, please consult your veterinarian or animal behaviorist.

Some people choose to treat their dog's unwanted barking problems with bark collars. The most humane bark collar available today is the citronella collar. These bark collars work by spraying harmless citronella in your dog's face whenever he barks. Studies show a very high rate of success with the use of these kinds of collars. Using a citronella collar for a period of time can help to reinforce more positive behaviors.

There are many training tips and tools available to help you replace unwanted barking with more positive behaviors. If you need more information, consult your veterinary staff or pet professional.

Raw Food Vs. Dog Food

2009-08-05T10:25:00.003-07:00

All Natural Dog Food

So you've got a new dog and you're wondering what to feed him. The market is full of commercial diets, and you've heard that some people feed their dogs raw meat. What should you do?

Dogs are omnivores which means they require meat, fiber, and other nutrients to stay healthy. Generally, adult dogs need a diet that consists of 22-25% protein and 15-19% fat, although puppies, pregnant dogs, and active dogs will have different nutritional requirements.

If you choose to feed your dog a commercial based diet, it is very important to choose a high quality food. You want to make sure that a good quality protein source such as lamb meal, chicken meal, or turkey meal is the number one ingredient. You want to stay away from foods that list a grain as the number one ingredient or contain lots of byproducts and preservatives.

Healthy Dog Food System

Many people choose to feed their dogs raw food or the BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food or Bones and Raw Food) Diet. This diet consists of raw meaty bones, vegetables, offal (the organ part of the protein source), recreational bones, and proteins like cottage cheese and eggs with the shells. Proponents of this diet claim that it keeps their dogs healthier than commercially prepared diets.

The following are some pros and cons of both diets:

Testing: People who advocate raw diets claim that the diet is tried and true and has been tested positively for centuries on wild dogs. They say that since commercial diets have been around since only the 1950's, there is no long term testing that has been done on this food. Proponents of raw food claim that the increase in allergies, dysplasia, and other health conditions is as a result of dogs being fed commercial dog food.

People who believe in commercial dog food point to the millions of dollars each year companies such as Purina, Iams, Hill's, and Nutro spend on scientific and field testing of their products. They believe that commercial dog food contains all of the nutrients that a dog needs to grow and be healthy and that since the BARF diet is complicated, expensive, and difficult to prepare, many people do not properly understand it and are not appropriately feeding their dogs.

Grains: Advocates of raw feeding say that dogs cannot properly digest grains and therefore do not feed them. They feel that the commercial market uses grains because they are inexpensive fillers.

Proponents of commercial dog food say that as dogs are omnivores, it is only natural that they require the nutritional benefits of grains. They feel that people who feed raw food are depriving their dogs of this nutrient.

Raw Ingredients vs. Cooked Ingredients: People who feed their dogs raw food diets feel that nature intended for animals to eat their food raw and that cooking damages the chemical makeup of foods and that cooking the food actually damages an animal's immune system.

Those that feel that commercial food is the way to go, claim that there is no difference between cooking the animal's food and cooking human food. That all of the nutrients are still active in cooked food providing healthy meals for animals.

Additives: People who believe in feeding their dogs raw food feel that no additives are needed and that their animals are getting all of the nutrients they require. They feel that the commercial food companies use additives to enhance the palatability of their food effectively "addicting" a dog to it.

Commercial food advocates say that additives such as omega 3 and 6 fatty acids are essential to giving the dog the proper balance of nutrients he requires, while raw food is missing some essential vitamins and minerals.

Variety: Those who feed raw food feel that dogs need variety in their diet and that commercial food is very boring for them.

Commercial food advocates say that dogs have very sensitive digestive systems and that variety actually can cause things such as vomiting and diarrhea.

Whether you choose to feed your dog the BARF diet or commercial food, it is important to be educated on what a dog's nutritional requirements are. You should also consult your veterinarian for his recommendation on diet.

Different Training For Different Breeds

2009-08-05T10:25:00.002-07:00

I am certain we all remember a popular song a few years ago with the line "different strokes for different folks." Well, the same applies to the canine world. Pure breeds have been refined over the years for specialized purposes and if these purposes are considered in the training, you are assured of a much better animal that is well suited to its training. Just as you would not ask the ninety-pound clerical assistant to operate a jackhammer, you shouldn't ask a pure breed dog to do something their breeding would make them incapable of. All that could possibly result from this error would be a frustrated owner, a frustrated dog and a damaged relationship between the two.

So what kind of specific jobs are the animals to be trained for? We shall discuss a few breed types over the next few paragraphs and perhaps give you a better idea of what skills to look for in your pet and what would be unfair to ask of them. These suggestions will hopefully point you in the correct direction in your training endeavors so that you and your pet can attain the best possible situation for both of you. Let's start the discussion by looking at the hunting dog and its subcategories.

Hunting dogs have been bred for a purpose and it has remained relatively the same throughout history. Their main function is to flush game from its hiding places and then to retrieve the game after we have dispatched it. However, there are different skill sets even amongst the hunting breeds and whilst some interchangeability is possible, it is not always in the best interest of the dog. Hunting dogs fall mainly in the categories of water dogs, bird dogs and tracking dogs. Water dogs include such breed as the Labrador Retriever and are bred primarily for the purpose of waterfowl hunting and retrieval in wet land environments.

Bird Dogs are more of a land-hunting animal, even though it is possible to interchange these two breed types a bit. Bird Dogs include Irish Setters and the Pointer breeds. The third classification of hunting dog is the Tracking breeds, which include hounds of all varieties. These dogs are prized for the determination and keen sense of smell. These dogs are well suited for leashed hunts or long distance, night hunts for nocturnal animals, such as raccoons or opossums, which may travel great distances in escape attempts.

For the next group of animals, we shall consider the lap dog or house pet breeds. These are generally smaller animals and have sociable personalities. These dogs are well suited for common pet tricks such as sitting up or being trained to "speak" (bark on command) as well as fetching small objects. These are also the type of pet that is commonly trained to be dressed up in pint size outfits for special occasions and holidays and, for the most part, they seem quite tolerant of the behavior. A listing of such breeds would include animals such as Toy Poodles, Chihuahuas, Pekingese, Pomeranians and Lhasa Apsos, along with similar breeds.

Another breed group to consider is the Working dogs classification. These dogs have both the desire to perform and the size and muscle to back it up. They can be seen on police and military forces around the world, on farm lots working livestock and even on the snowy tundra. These dogs are well trained for personal security and protection, livestock control and even assisting in transportation via dog sleds. These are the dogs who are trained for drug and explosive detection and also leading the visually impaired. These dogs do their job and demand the respect that goes with it. Breeds listed in this category would include German Shepherds, Malamutes, Australian Cattle Dogs and various other breeds of similar size and nature.

It is also to be considered that some pets have left their original purpose when they have switched locations. For example, few Americans actually use Dachshunds for the purpose of badger hunting as they were originally bred. Rather, they tend to keep these animals as house pets. When considering how to train your animal, consider not only the breed, but common practice and whether a particular skill is of use in the area where you live.

Hopefully these simple guidelines will help you to decide the best direction to take your pets training and the two of you can enjoy many wonderful adventures to come.

Labrador Pups - Is This the Best Dog Breed For Me?

2009-08-05T10:25:00.001-07:00

Labrador pups belong among the most notable and widespread breeds on the globe. They belong to the retriever group of dogs which is among many types of sporting dog. A Labrador pup is the perfect comrade for people of all ages as they're looked upon as social, bright, vigorous, gentle and good natured. They make first-class working dogs and with training they're acknowledged to be one of the most acquiescent and multi talented breeds in the world.

Prior to acquiring a Labrador pup it is perpetually fundamental to take into consideration the factors and obligations that accompany caring for these specific breed of dogs. A considerable measure of time is required to train the dog especially if they are needed to be a working dog. They're also recognized to be a devouring breed which means they'll require a lot of physical exercise especially as they're known to be sporting dogs that are active creatures. If you prefer to transport your Labrador pup here and there in the car, do not worry about it for they generally are not prone to automobile sickness. The finance to discipline and handle for it is another component that's to be taken into consideration prior to owning a Labrador pup.

Labrador retriever pups will develop upwardly to being 55 to 80 lbs at a height of 21 to 25 inches. As a whole they should have a strong and powerful body with a level top line. They've a coat that's described to be water-resistant so that they do not get cold when in water during the winter. The Labrador pups can be black, yellow or chocolate in color, all of which are acceptably recognized colors as the Labrador breed. On average a Labrador pup's s life expectancy is between 12 to 13 years yet puppies shouldn't be brought home until they're 7 to 10 weeks of age.

The most dependable method to acquire a Labrador pup is through a accredited breeder. The breeder should be a reliable source of service prior to and later on having the puppy while the owner and the pup adapt to life together. You will want to also check for vaccination particulars and whatever additional health concerns ahead of getting the puppy. Also, don't forget to check into the personality character of the Labrador pup you may be about to purchase.

A Labrador pup is a handful to supervise, so be sure you realize the responsibilities that come with it. Always know about the breed before possessing it because they do become part of the household when brought home.

Tips on Dog Training

2009-08-05T10:25:00.000-07:00

FUN Things You Can Teach Your Dog

When you are looking to interact with your dog in other ways rather than the typical walks and obedience work, you can teach her thinking games. Often, if you identify what your dog already has an aptitude for, you can develop on that. Does she use her eyes or her nose more? Below are some ideas to get you started:

All About Black Labradors

2009-07-31T10:24:00.000-07:00

All About Black Labradors

The Black Labradors are excellent family pets as well as excellent work dogs as they make great detectives. The breed of the Black Labradors are extremely gentle and are an excellent addition to have in the home as long as you are willing to train them on house rules. When it comes to having children in the home you want a dog that has a good temperament and this is where Black Labradors make great choices.

When trying to select which type or breed of dog is best for you and your family, it is important to really take some time and try to learn as much about the different breeds as possible. This will help make sure that you are picking the right breed for your family and for your lifestyle. After a lot of consideration, a lot of people find themselves wanting to look at Black Labradors, as out of all of the Labrador types this seems to be a popular choice.

As it is, this breed of dog is one of the most popular dogs being used by police and other types of government bodies. These dogs serve as wonderful detectives and have a high working ability and never give up easily. These dogs are not only great for work but also for families as they are very gentle, intelligent, and they have a wonderful good nature about them. But, this breed must be trained on the basics of housebreaking because if left undone, they can become very boisterous.

There is a lot to love when it comes to Black Labradors and that is not just referring to how smart they are. These dogs are anything but your typical lap dogs, as they will grow to become very large. The females weigh in as the smallest but they are still anywhere from fifty five to seventy pounds. The males, the larger of the two, end up being somewhere between sixty-five and eighty pounds.

Their look is distinctive with their straight tail being able to give a nice strong slap it if you get too close to it. Their short hair is very smooth and it almost seems to be waterproof when going for a quick swim. It is also said that their strong and straight tail acts as a perfect rudder as when they swim, the tail helps them change direction. This breed is certainly one that is recommended by many people for their looks and personality.
Another thing that makes Black Labradors so incredible to have as a pet in the home is that this breed is known for their excellent temperament. They are not very territorial, aggressive, insecure or destructive, as some other breeds of dogs are. This breed is very gentle and so much so in fact that they have been known to be able to carry an egg in their mouth without breaking it. But one downfall is that they do like to chew on things, but this habit can easily be broken with a little bit of proper training.

Also, another factor to consider is that females are a little bit more independent then their male counterparts. And at maturity being reached around three years of age, you will have plenty of time to enjoy the puppy energy that they will most certainly show off. Be aware that this breed does love its food and will always try and ask for more and more food so it is up to the owner to watch how much the dog eats in order to keep it at a healthy weight.

Dog behavior problems

2009-07-14T11:08:00.000-07:00

There are many behavioral problems in dogs that leave us wondering: Why are they doing that? What are the causes and what can I do to stop such behavior? Some of the more frequently reported behavioral problems are described below.

Destructive behavior
Destructive behavior is one of the most common complaints from dog owners, and hence necessitates the most in-depth discussion. A dog quickly ceases to be ‘man’s best friend’ when he/she scratches up a prized rug, chews up a favourite sweater, or eats an expensive pair of shoes. Destructive behavior is due to many causes, including separation anxiety. Many owners are gone from the house for many hours during the day, and the result is that the dog has more opportunity to develop destructive behavior The problem with this is that owners come home and see the chewed object and will punish the dog at that time. The dog will not associate the act of destruction to the punishment because they will not understand exactly why you are upset. They will act ‘guilty’ because they know you are upset, but they will not associate your anger with their act of destroying the object. Therefore, do not punish a dog for its behavior unless you catch him in the act.

Another reason for destructive behavior is lack of environmental stimulation. Boredom may be a cause, or at least a contributing factor, especially in young or large dogs that do not receive adequate exercise. Dogs need environmental stimulation. Obtaining a second pet or providing interesting and interactive toys for the dog may help. For example, a hollow toy filled with solid treats or peanut butter encourages the dog to interact with the ball to get at the treats.

Finally, destructive behavior could also occur due to barrier frustration. This may result if the dog has been punished by being put in a closed room or into a fenced yard, or it may be caused by the presence of something very desirable on the other side of the barrier. In these cases, the dog will try hard to break through the barrier and may destroy the door frame or door knobs, for example.

To treat destructive problems, one must determine the exact cause of the behavior and remedy this cause accordingly. For example, a young dog that is chewing furniture but not doorways is mostly likely in need of more environmental stimulation. Increasing exercise, providing another animal companion, putting the radio on, decreasing anxiety, or giving chew toys only when the owners are away are other treatments.

Preventing such behavior from developing is always easier than trying to treat it afterwards. Puppy owners should avoid giving the puppy old shoes or a piece of rug to chew on because the animal will not be able to differentiate between an old sneaker and the new leather dress shoe. Dog toys should be provided, but they should be a type and texture that the dog can easily distinguish from forbidden objects. It is also a good idea to be consistent when presenting toys to the dog and make it obvious that the toy indeed belongs to the dog. Puppies should be left in their crate when the owners are gone from the house. The crate should not be the place where you confine the dog as punishment. The crate is their ‘den’ and the puppy should learn that it is their own safe haven.

Aggression
Aggression is also a common complaint from dog owners and is a serious threat to public safety. Refer to the article on aggression and biting at http://pets.ca/articles/article-dog-aggression.htm for more information. Biting should be discouraged during puppy-hood. Refer to the article on what to do if you have a ‘mouthy puppy’ here: http://pets.ca/articles/article-dogmouthy.htm

Excessive barking
Excessive barking can be disruptive to you and the neighbours. But before considering drastic surgery such as debarking (which is not recommended), determine where and when the dog is barking. If it occurs only when out in the backyard alone, the solution is to keep the dog indoors and accompany the dog on a leash outside. More commonly, dogs bark at strangers or visitors to the house. This is due to territorial behavior and the dog is simply protecting his/her property – that may include you. It is your task to teach the dog to stop inappropriate barking. Use positive reinforcement to modify the dog’s behavior For example, when the dog barks, call him/her over or command him/her to sit and reward with a tasty treat. Do not use negative punishment because it may cause fear in the dog, which may exacerbate the barking problem. For more on eliminating barking problems, refer to the article here: http://pets.ca/articles/article-dog_barking.htm or here: http://pets.ca/articles/article-bark-alone.htm

Jumping up on people
Jumping up on people is a common behavioral problem that is usually minor, unless the dog is very large or the owner has small children. The problem persists because the dog continues to receive the attention that he/she wants. The best solution is to train the dog that jumping up will get him/her no attention. Ignore the dog completely when he/she attempts to jump up on you. Look upward and fold your arms across your chest so the dog receives no physical or visual contact. Command the dog to sit calmly. Once he/she sits, you may reward with attention. Be consistent and have the entire family participate in this training. The dog will soon learn that jumping up will get him/her no attention.

Pica
Pica is defined as the abnormal ingestion of materials that are not normally food. These include soil, gravel, or feces. Puppies are notorious for eating inappropriate objects that must sometimes be surgically removed from the gastrointestinal tract. Occasionally, pica may be a sign of a deficiency in their diet, but more frequently, it is simply due to the animal’s own curiosity. One of the most troubling forms of pica is the ingestion of feces (coprophagia). Unless the feces contains parasites, coprophagia affects the owner’s aesthetic values more than the dog’s health. However, to change such a habit, owners can sprinkle pepper on the feces to make it less appealing to the dog. Another approach is to inject hot sauce into the center of feces so the dog cannot smell that it has been been altered.

Excessive licking
Self-mutilation is a behavioral problem caused by excessive licking and/or biting of the animal’s own body. The affected areas can progress to lick granulomas (hairless areas of thickened, irritated skin) or more serious, infected wounds. An indication of the dog licking at an area is discolouration of the fur. Saliva will cause fur to redden. In the absence of other diseases that cause itching (such as parasites or allergies), this self-mutilation has a psychological cause. Boredom, changes in the environment, or other stress factors are examples of possible causes.

Tail chasing
Tail chasing is a phenomenon that is often humorous to people. However, it should be considered a behavior problem and should not be encouraged. The cause is unknown. Restraint seems to exacerbate the problem, so eliminating cage confinement and distracting the dog while he/she is chasing may help. Tail chasing is also often a sign of boredom and inadequate exercise.

Phobias
Dogs have an interesting variety of phobias, including fear of thunderstorms, fireworks, street noises, or cars. Occasionally, the phobia can be traced to a bad experience that the dog had in the past. A common phobia is fear of thunderstorms. Those dogs may become frantic or try to run away during storms. In severe cases, the dog will try to escape by clawing through doors, or jumping high fences. The presence of the owner or a blanket to cover the dog often helps. Progressive desensitization for thunder phobias is a commonly used treatment method. A good quality recording of thunder is played quietly to the dog while positive reinforcement is given, such as treats. The volume of the recording is increased progressively as the dog becomes more and more comfortable with the noise. This can be done daily in 10-minute sessions. If the problem is very serious, calming medication may be needed during storms.

Car chasing/Running away
Car chasing and running away are problems that can be prevented by keeping the dog on a leash, under voice control, or in a sturdy pen at all times. If you wish to let your dog off-leash, do so in a fenced backyard or designated fenced dog park. Once a dog has learned to chase cars or to roam, it can often find ways to escape confinement, so restraint as well as behavioral modification methods should be used. For example, squirting the dog with a water pistol or frightening him/her with a loud noise (i.e. an empty pop can filled with pebbles dropped on the ground behind the dog) can discourage the dog from running onto the road.

Digging holes
Digging holes in the yard is a problem that arises when the dog is trying to escape from the yard. Dogs also dig to keep cool or to catch rodents. If the dog is left outdoors during hot weather, ensure the dog has a cool shelter with plenty of water available. Eliminate rodents and put chicken wire where the dog likes to dig to deter it. If the dog is a natural digger like a Terrier then the digging has a genetic component. Consider giving the dog an area where it is allowed to dig.